Backpacking Utah in july?

[JohnWayne]

My girlfriend and I are planning a trip out to Utah at the end of June thru mid-July. We would like to spend some time at Zion, Bryce and Canyonlands. We are also planning day hikes at Horseshoe canyon and Arches. We know it's going to be hot and not so pleasant. Summer is our only vacation time. We are looking for suggestions on specific locations and backpacking trips. First hand knowledge is important and key when planning. Thanks,

Scott

[mattandersao]

The barracks, East Fork Virgin River, Zion National Park.

[tanya]

Hi Scott,

Here are my backpacking suggestions for end of June thru mid-July.

http://www.zionnational-park.com/backpacking-zion-national-park.htm
Check on Narrows, East Rim and West Rim
http://www.zionnational-park.com/parunuweap-hike.htm

If you wanted a great adventure... try backing packing 50 miles across Zion.

You could also backpack the Mineral area and explore in there.
http://www.zionnational-park.com/mineral-gulch.htm


My other favorite in the area for that time of year would be Bull Valley gorge to Willis Creek in the GSENM
http://www.zionnational-park.com/staircase-bull-valley-gorge.htm

[JohnWayne]

Thanks Tanya,
We are looking to spend three days in the Zion area.
I am intrigued by the Mineral area and Bull Valley. Do either of those treks require two vehicles or are they loop hikes?
What are your thoughts on the death hollow area?

Scott

[tanya]

Both are usually done with one vehicle and is how Bo and I did it and wrote up the trip reports. You will enjoy them both. Take a look at Parunuweap too if you choose to do Mineral. They both go down to the river and you could spend time down there exploring.

For Bull Valley Gorge, you park there at that trailhead and end at Willis Creek trailhead, but we just walked up the road a short distance back to our vehicle when done.

You could set up a shuttle for Parunuweap (which is my favorite way) or turn around and go out the way you came in near Checkerboard Mesa.

Mineral we did as a day hike and it was a long day, but came out close to where our vehicle was parked even though we were doing some exploring in there.

I have never explored the Death Hollow area, but Tom has.
http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/utah/esca/micro.htm


You are new! Welcome to the group!

[JohnWayne]

Yes. I am new to this site. Thanks for the welcome. I was hoping that such a site existed. I find that first hand knowledge is the only way to have a well planned trip. We are going to be out there for 2 weeks and want to make the best of it.

[tanya]

It's Sunday and that's a slow day, but stick around and you will gets lots of suggestions.

[Scott P]

Personally I would forget about Canyonlands that time of year and head instead to Zion, Bryce and Escalante. I love canyonlands, but overall, Escalante is probably more spectacular anyway. Plus it has hikes that are much more pleasant that time of year.

In Zion, I would head for one of the watery hikes; i.e. Parunaweap or the Zion Narrows (make reservations early). Lower Kolob is great, but has a couple of drops that require a rope at least for a hand line, or possibly a very short rappel (most people used to just jump the falls, but using a rope might be safer). Conditions must be favorable (and they may not be).

Ashdown Gorge is another good on that time of year and is just north of Zion. You can dayhike it, but to see some of the best parts (such as the amphitheater at the bottom of Cedar Breaks), 2-3 days is recommended.

In Escalante, there are plenty of hikes that are good for summer. Death Hollow is great, but has poison ivy (some people are sensitive and some aren't-I am).

http://www.summitpost.org/images/medium/221971.jpg (http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/221971.jpg)

(Mountain Jim photo)

40 Mile-Willow is great in summer. See our TR below:

http://www.summitpost.org/adventures-in-escalante-photo-trip-report/637939

http://www.summitpost.org/images/medium/625769.JPG (http://www.summitpost.org/fortymile-creek/625769)

Boulder Creek is another great summer one in the Escalante area. Deer Creek and Pine Creek are pretty good in summer too.

That time of year you will have way more fun in the Escalante than in Canyonlands.

As much as I like Canyonlands, don't try backpacking it in June or July. If you defy all wisdom and must go anyway, go to Upper Salt Creek. Just south of Canyonlands are Dark Canyon, Bowdie and Gypsum Canyons. Gypsum is a good summer one with lots of towering waterfalls and refreshing pools. It's one of the best canyons in the area and probably the world. Dark Canyon below Black Steer has a lot of pools and waterfalls all the way to the Colorado River, but climbing up the Sundance Trail will be hot (get an early start).

http://www.summitpost.org/images/medium/407788.jpg (http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/407788.jpg)

(Sean Peckham photo)

Once again, Escalante or places like Gypsum Canyon will be way better than Canyonlands that time of year and just as or even more scenic.

[tanya]

I second Ashdown Gorge, its a favorite! Best done with a shuttle though.

http://www.zionnational-park.com/dixie-forest-ashdown.htm

[JohnWayne]

I was very lucky to have found this site. The folks here are amazingly helpful! As we continue to get great suggestions, it helps us to plan a much more enjoyable trip. The trip reports are awesome! I am now discovering that there so many places we would love to see and only 2 weeks to see some of them. You are blessed to have all of that in your back yard. My daughter lives in Smithfield and is attending school there. I see now why she loves it there.
We spend a great deal of time hiking Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine.
Two summers ago my girlfriend and I spent two weeks in Arizona. I didn't want to leave. In fact, I wanted to move there as soon as we got home. I will post our trip report to share our experience.
Thanks again for all your help and keep the ideas coming.

Scott

[jdgibney]

Welcome, fellow New Englander!

[JohnWayne]

Thanks, Glad to be here.

[accadacca]

I was very lucky to have found this site. The folks here are amazingly helpful! As we continue to get great suggestions, it helps us to plan a much more enjoyable trip. The trip reports are awesome! I am now discovering that there so many places we would love to see and only 2 weeks to see some of them. You are blessed to have all of that in your back yard. My daughter lives in Smithfield and is attending school there. I see now why she loves it there.
We spend a great deal of time hiking Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine.
Two summers ago my girlfriend and I spent two weeks in Arizona. I didn't want to leave. In fact, I wanted to move there as soon as we got home. I will post our trip report to share our experience.
Thanks again for all your help and keep the ideas coming.

Scott

We sure do take it for granted. I drive to work everyday with the wasatch mountains in my sights. Utah is certainly a mecca for amazing outdoor activities. :clap:

[JohnWayne]

I am afraid once I get there I wont want to leave.

What is Moab like?

[tanya]

By the way since you like to backpack. I think its cool to do Zion, drive to Glendale and enter the Grand Staircase there. Do Bull Valley Gorge, then exit at Cannyonville right by Bryce Canyon. Visit Bryce.

map so you get the idea
http://www.zionnational-park.com/zion-national-park-road-map.htm

[Zoriloco]

Quick question for you guys. When do they start selling these permits and how much am I looking to pay for a 3 day trip? Is there a limit on the number of people a group can have?

Thank you

Alan

[tanya]

Hi Alan,

Which permits and which hike?

[peakbaggers]

What is Moab like?
We live in Colorado near the Utah border and spend a lot of time around Moab. Expect hot that time of year - typically near 100 but there are ways to stay cool. One backpack we did years ago was to hike up Negro Bill Canyon several miles, (should have running water the first 3 miles or so) hike up & out of the canyon, cross over the Sand Flats road, drop into Rill Creek drainage (probably dry then) follow it to the North Fork of Mill Creek (always running & has delightful pools) and then hike on out to town. For adults, you could easily do in 3 days. You can also take a detour up the other fork of Mill Creek. Then there's the LaSalle Mountains - plenty of camping & hiking & much cooler at elevations above 8,000 ft., mountain biking up there too.
In addition, you can still bike the world famous slickrock bike trail - just get a real early start so you can finish before temps climb above 80 or higher.
Last but not least - plenty of canyons to descend all around there and you can always find plenty of shade in them. See Shane's site.

[Shan]

I love Utah all year round, but I do kind of whither in this summer heat. It's HOT!

Last July we visited Zion, but only did the Narrows hike *just as a day trip to Orderville Canyon and back.* If you are prepared, you could do the overnight hike through Zion but you need permits from the backcountry office (day of) and they limit how many persons can stay in the canyon. Then you'll have to arrange for a shuttle.

Personally, since I whither in the heat (I live in the Northern end of the state - not as acclimated as others), I need to pretty much be standing in water at all times in the Utah desert in July (or in a car with A/C!). I don't think I could have managed any dry Zion hikes. You could go really high like Cedar Breaks National Monument (10,000 feet) or Bryce, even then it was still tank-top warm, but much more doable for day hiking though.

In addition to the other water canyon hikes mentioned, there is a nice little backpack in Pleasant Creek in the backcountry of Capitol Reef N.P. There's an honor system U-pick of the fruit trees in Fruita.
http://www.utahredrocks.com/pleasant.htm

Canyonlands may not have sufficient water sources in the backcountry to refill on a backpack. You could just do one overnight and carry all your water. I did do that once - in March however!

I would say just take it really easy, don't plan a whole lot in the heat, you probably won't have a lot of energy. In the car, we took with us a container of powdered Gatorade and a 5 gal water jug so we could fix up some Gatorade on the spot.

[JohnWayne]

We hiked into Supai Village in the Grand Canyon 2 summers ago in August. It was very hot!
From what I've read, the backcountry permits are only available the day of. Correct me if I'm wrong. It looks as though are multi day hikes will be in Zion, Bryce and the Escalante ares. We wanted stay in Moab for a night and just hang out.

[Zoriloco]

Quick question for you guys. When do they start selling these permits and how much am I looking to pay for a 3 day trip? Is there a limit on the number of people a group can have?

Thank you

Alan

lol... yeah that info would probably help in getting an answer.... :lol8:

I was talking about the Zion National park permits. I was thinking of the Subway trail or the Zion Narros.

Thank you

Alan

[Shan]

I was talking about the Zion National park permits. I was thinking of the Subway trail or the Zion Narros.

Thank you

Alan "Walk-in permits are available for all areas in Zion National Park. At least 25 percent of all permits are set aside for walk-in visitors. Walk-in permits are available the day before or the day of your trip."

Or get them online starting May 5 for a July trip. $10 fee (plus your park entrance fee) for 1-2 ppl.

"There are two requirements to obtain online permits:

[Zoriloco]

Seems a bit of a chance to drive for 9hrs from CO and hope you can get a permit. Any suggestions on how to make this easier? Thanks

[tanya]

Just apply online or do something that does not require a permit.

Or go for the walkin permit and have a backup plan.

[accadacca]

The Subway however, has a lottery system that you can read about in that link.
Lottery!? What is this Idaho! :lol8:

[JohnWayne]

Hello Tanya,

We are planning on visiting my daughter in Smithfield and than driving to Zion. The plan is to stay the night near the park and heading in the next day. Can you recommend any lodging near the park?
Thanks

[tanya]

It depends on if you want to stay on the east side or south side of the park or stay right inside Zion in the Zion Lodge which is ran by a private company, xantarra, not the NPS, but its rustic as if the NPS did. http://www.zionlodge.com/

Mine: http://www.zionnational-park.com/east-zion-park-lodge.htm This is 12 miles east of Zion at the Jct. of SR-9 and US-89

East Side: http://www.eastziontourismcouncil.org/ Most are along US-89, just past mine.

This map gives you an idea of what's on the east side of Zion. http://www.zionnational-park.com/southern-utah-map.htm

My Best Western is on the east side and handy if you are going to Bryce and Grand Canyon or just want to be away from the crowds. If you stay there ask for the building closest to SR-9. Every room has the log furniture. Many of the other rooms however were remodeled even more recently, but we have not got the log furniture in them all.

Springdale is on the southside of the park and has a bunch of hotels. Desert Pearl Inn is the best I think, but it all depends on what you want. Some want the best, some want the cheapest. Most on this site are the cheap canyoneers. etc... :lol8: so they will tell you the best - cheap places to stay. Nothing wrong with that, just saying. :cool2:

[JohnWayne]

It looks like the Best Western is the best bet. The hot tub sounds nice! The rooms look nice.
My girlfriend read somewhere that Zion had free roaming buffalo. Is this true and if so, where?

[gnwatts]

Mule Canyon on Cedar Mesa is nice in the summer. A couple of good size pools and lots of shade, ruins.

[JohnWayne]

Sounds great! Could you give details on those locations. Where they are located and how to get to them. Thanks,

[gnwatts]

Drive about 25 minutes past Coomb Wash until you see a sign for Mule Canyon, turn around at the sign and go back about 200 yards and you will see a dirt road heading north (on your left), drive about 1/2 mile you will cross the canyon. Park here. A short 3 to 4 mile hike will bring you to paradise, tall ponderosa pines, pools and ruins.

[tanya]

That is Zion Mountain Ranch. It's some cabins between the park and Mt. Carmel Jct. There are some buffalo roaming out there.

[trackrunner]

My girlfriend read somewhere that Zion had free roaming buffalo. Is this true and if so, where?


That is Zion Mountain Ranch. It's some cabins between the park and Mt. Carmel Jct. There are some buffalo roaming out there.

^^^ this. not your free roaming wild bison herd. more like your free roaming livestock what's for dinner herd. :eat:

mmmmmmmmm. . . bison burger :slobber:

[tanya]

You are funny Shaun :lol8:


That place does not have good food at all and even though they advertise that they are IN the park, they are not. If you want Bison Burgers go to the best --- really it's the best food in the Southwest! Buffalo Bistro in Glendale! I can't say much that is good about Zion Mountain Ranch and Buffalo Grill.

The Buffalo Bistro is not open all year though. It's unique... buffalo burgers, but also rattlesnake all kinds of odd things. Ron Terry owns it and does all the cooking himself.

http://www.visiteastzion.info/buffalobistro.html


Great Food!!! ~ Unique Western Atmosphere ~ Truly a Great Dining Experience

Outdoor Grill - Cold Beer - Buffalo Burgers - Rocky Mountain Oysters
Rabbit Rattlesnake Sausage - Cornish Game Hens BBQ Wild Boar
BBQ Buffalo Ribs - Vegetarian Meals

Reservations Recommended: 435-648-2778

[JohnWayne]

If you had 3 days, which of these trails would you prefer? Kalob Canyon or the Narrows?

[Scott P]

If you had 3 days, which of these trails would you prefer? Kalob Canyon or the Narrows?

It depends on the time of year. June (or whenever the Narrows open-varies year to year) through early or mid October, definately the Narrows. Other times of year Kolob Section is more reasonable.

Or are you speaking of Kolob Creek than drains into the Narrows (the word "trail" makes me thing not)? There really isn't a Kolob Canyon?

[tanya]

Kolob Canyons http://www.zionnational-park.com/kolob-canyons.htm

Kolob Creek (Canyon) http://www.zionnational-park.com/images/albums/index64.htm

Yep.. what Scott said.

[JohnWayne]

You are correct. My map shows it as Lees Pass( Kolob canyon). More specifically, the La Verkin Creek trail and Hop Valley Trail.
We are out there for 2 weeks and want to backpack Zion first for three days. It will be the first part of July, so a cooler area with water would be our choice. The Narrows looked like a good July hike. We are just trying to figure the logistics of our hike. We will only have the one vehicle, so that would require making a loop hike or some sort of shuttle. It looks like the Narrows hike starts at the Chamberlain Ranch. From there we can either hike in and back track out or get creative and make our own loop hike. What are your thoughts?

[erial]

Reckon you're flying into Salt Lake City and that your 2 week loop of Utah would start from there? If so, you'd likely head down US6 to get to Arches/Moab. When you pass thru Price enroute you may want to consider checking out Nine Mile Canyon. After filling up on arches in Moab you'll probably head to Horseshoe via Rt 24. On the other side of 24 you might want to check out Goblin Valley and do one of the slot canyon hikes in the area. Continuing south on 24 you'll arrive at Capitol Reef. You might want to take the "shortcut" Burr Trail at this point which will take over to Rt 12 at Boulder and eventually to the Hole in the Rock rd. Some nifty hikes can be had down that road. Not too much further to get to Bryce and then Zion.

Bring plenty of water. Not alot of shower facilities along the way. May want to bring one of those portable deals that you hang from a tree branch. What I like about Utah is that there's always a dirt road available that readily leads to a free primitive campsite. Convenient car camping guarantees more time for hikes with a light daypack on one's back.

A book such as Michael Kelsey's Canyon Hiking Guide to the Colorado Plateau offers a survey of the hikes in the region and might prove useful in winnowing down the places that you positively gotta visit.

[JohnWayne]

we are actually headed the other way. down to Zion first than Bryce,Horseshoe, Escalante, Arches.

[jb56chevy]

You have been given lots of good advice already. I would echo Zion and vicinity in the summer, Arches, Canyonlands, the San Rafael Swell, and Moab are too hot then. If you only have a short window to do some hikes I would do day trips from a base camp. I have stayed at the top of Orderville and it was nice.

I like Orderville better than the narrows, but if you could split the narrows over two days it would be awesome. Subway is great, too. You will have to drive a bit to get there but hiking in Buckskin Gulch is about as spectacular a hike as you will ever do. You can do an out and back or pull the permit and do the overnight loop.

[Tango]

If you want to cool off there is a local haunt called Oowah lake a short drive from Moab, along the river and up, up, up (Manti La Sal Mountain Loop Rd). It is up in the Manti La Sals and is at elevation. When I was there in July there was still snow under the trees! Very nice hike there through Heidi alpine meadows and the wild flowers were in bloom! Gorgeous!

Since I am so new it won't let me post a link, just google Oowah lake. There are some tent sites up there. It was very nice and a nice break from the hot!