ratagonia
01-28-2011, 06:42 PM
BACKGROUND: While preparing for a trip to the Grand Canyon, which includes many days of canyoneering, I am writing up some notes on Canyoneering technique for the non-hard-core-canyoneers in the group, and to help make group management better in the canyons. Here is the first one:
Unlike rafting, swimming while canyoneering is considered good.
Most of our swims will be potholes after a rappel. We will be in drysuits or wetsuits, and wearing packs. Here is how I swim when canyoneering, and I think it works pretty well - others might pipe in with other suggestions.
Your pack has a drybag in it that provides flotation. This is a big benefit when you ride atop it; kind of a problem when it rides atop you. Thus, when swimming, turn around and swim on your back, leaning against the pack. The flotation generally keeps your shoulders and neck out of the water, which makes it a lot easier and warmer. It is very helpful when setting up for a rappel into a pool, to cinch the waistbelt of your pack low and tight. I sometimes fasten it through my belay loop, and it helps to not put the buckle in the center, but off to one side.
Lean back against the pack and enjoy the ride. Often, the swim can be accomplished without putting your hands in the water, and this will keep you a LOT warmer. See the second picture on this page:
http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/rave/1011calendar/index.htm
The problem then becomes how to standup and get out of the pool without getting your hands wet. The key here is to stand up when the water is just above waist deep. It is common to swim until you hit bottom, and then the water is too shallow to stand up in without putting your hand down for stability.
A BIG HELP here is teamwork. Once you complete the swim, you can suggest to the next person the best place to standup. In many cases, there is no 'best place' to stand up, but a helping hand from shore or the shallows can be a big aid to the next person standing up and/or getting out of the pothole. Often the potholes are slippery, and even shallow ones CAN be difficult to get out of. A helping hand here and there goes a long way.
If rappelling into a pool, then disconnecting (which is called "the dreaded floating disconnect") might be called for. We try to set the length of the rope, so it automatically pulls through as you hit the water, but there will be exceptions. The first person down does not usually get the benefit of an accurately set rope length, and then it is their duty to use hand signals to re-set the rope to a good length (with the end 3" above the water).
Floating Disconnect: Rappel into the water, then lean back on your pack. If the rope is tight above you, pull two feet of rope through your rappel device so you have some slack. Hold still, and carefully unlock your carabiner(s) and disconnect the rope. Clip your device back into the carabiner, and CHECK IT, before letting go of it. Then you can swim away and yell OFF ROPE.
In Deer Creek, the last rap, you are usually being bombarded by water at the bottom of the rappel. What I do there is pull rope through the device as I swim away, never letting it get too tight. When I am in a convenient place, then I do the disconnect, and signal Off Rope.
In some places, there will be a drop into a pool, a swim, and then a drop into the next pool using the same rope. In the case where the swim is more than a few strokes, AND a big group, it is usually faster to set one rope end into the first pool with a stone knot, and use the other end for the second part of the rappel; so that after you rap the first part, you quickly go off-rope, then do the swim, then set up for the second part of the rappel. We probably do not want to load the anchor with two people, so wait for your opportunity to rap the second part when the first part is unweighted. Sometimes it works out that the rhythm is good and efficient - and sometimes not. Sometimes, a meat anchor can be set up for the second part, which makes the two parts on independent anchors and can be much faster. The last person will do something different, probably rapping double strand, and adjusting the first-pool-side longer for the second rappel.
COMMENTS:
Rich Rudow: Once upon a time, when nearing the final 180' free hanging rap in Sundance Canyon, Albert dropped his ATC in a deep pothole while doing a swimming disconnect. In taking pity on poor Albert, I lent him my ATC for the big rap and used a munter to rap down myself. After that speedy spinning descent I went home and tethered my ATC to my rack with 3mm cord to ensure I never drop MY ATC in a pothole. The next time I saw Albert, his ATC was tethered too :)
I use a 7mm AL rapide on the end of the tether to connect the ATC cord to my left gear loop which allows an easy disconnect when desired. I might add that Pirana users have a big advantage with swimming disconnects over ATC users since the Pirana is secured to the biner and cannot be dropped.
Sonny Lawrence: Be careful with a tether on an ATC. It can get jammed while on rappel and hang you up. Depending on the tether and how it is jammed, you might be asking for a second rope for rescue.
Tom Jones: I agree. I am anti-tether. With your pack, floating on your back, focus on the task and don't drop the device. A tether is a problem waiting to happen, please don't. If you are using a Bod or Alpine Bod without a belay loop, may I suggest using a locking biner or large rapide (10mm Aluminum) for your belay loop. This will make floating disconnects easier.
But really, the best way is to set the rope length as soon as possible, so the end of the rope can be pulled through. In my book, if you have a tether on your atc, then you also ought to have a knife at hand. Then again, knives around weighted ropes are also an accident waiting to happen...
Steve Ramras: (Tom: Most of our swims will be potholes after a rappel. We will be in drysuits or wetsuits, and wearing packs. Here is how I swim when canyoneering, and I think it works pretty well - others might pipe in with other suggestions. Your pack has a drybag in it that provides flotation. This is a big benefit when you ride atop it; kind of a problem when it rides atop you. Thus, when swimming, turn around and swim on your back, leaning against the pack. The flotation generally keeps your shoulders and neck out of the water, which makes it a lot easier and warmer.)
A good way to measure your flotation. If the water is up to the bottom of your chin....too little. If the water is up to the collarbone, then you are just right. If the water is much lower on you, then you are like a floating cork and balance can be a challenge.
(Tom: It is very helpful when setting up for a rappel into a pool, to cinch the waistbelt of your pack low and tight. I sometimes fasten it through my belay loop, and it helps to not put the buckle in the center, but off to one side.)
Sometimes cinching higher on the waist fits with the rest of the flotation system you have for right water level and balance of the float. Experiment.
(Tom: Lean back against the pack and enjoy the ride. Often, the swim can be accomplished without putting your hands in the water, and this will keep you a LOT warmer. See the second picture on this page: http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/rave/1011calendar/index.htm )
For less competent folks such as myself, I try not to ride on the backpack too hard and have it forced under water too much. This places pressure on drybag systems and failures are more common. Use it, but don't abuse it. Bleeding air out of drybags seems to help here too. Empty water bottles compensate for loss of air in the drybags
(Tom: The problem then becomes how to standup and get out of the pool without getting your hands wet. The key here is to stand up when the water is just above waist deep. It is common to swim until you hit bottom, and then the water is too shallow to stand up in without putting your hand down for stability. A BIG HELP here is teamwork. Once you complete the swim, you can suggest to the next person the best place to standup. In many cases, there is no 'best place' to stand up, but a helping hand from shore or the shallows can be a big aid to the next person standing up and/or getting out of the pothole. Often the potholes are slippery, and even shallow ones CAN be difficult to get out of. A helping hand here and there goes a long way.)
It is common courtesy to say "stand here" and then the folks behind can look over the shoulder and see where. If one gets too far into shallows and no one is there to help, one can reverse and swim back out a few yards. Much easier than trying to get upright from the shallows. If one is leading, one can troll low with one leg, while swimming, hoping to find the bottom as one swims. This costs momentum, but someone has to do it.
THIS IS IMPORTANT! On swims, calm water is MUCH faster, easier to navigate, prevents slashes of cold water on to sensitive areas like the neck. Charging thru the water, creating waves, that hit fellow swimmers makes it harder for everyone and is considered bad form. Easy does it. Bicycle pedaling motions with the legs is efficient too.
(Tom: In some places, there will be a drop into a pool, a swim, and then a drop into the next pool using the same rope. In the case where the swim is more than a few strokes, AND a big group, it is usually faster to set one rope end into the first pool with a stone knot, and use the other end for the second part of the rappel; so that after you rap the first part, you quickly go off-rope, then do the swim, then set up for the second part of the rappel. We probably do not want to load the anchor with two people, so wait for your opportunity to rap the second part when the first part is unweighted. Sometimes it works out that the rhythm is good and efficient - and sometimes not. Sometimes, a meat anchor can be set up for the second part, which makes the two parts on independent anchors and can be much faster. The last person will do something different, probably rapping double strand, and adjusting the first-pool-side longer for the second rappel.)
My limited experience with Grand Canyon, is that the swims are not that long, so much of what Tom and I have said above may be mostly educational, but not often applicable. On the other hand, stair step drops do seem to be common in these places and meat anchors in the middle of multi tier drops will likely safe time and warmth. One final thing. Many of the pools in the canyon have VERY slippery bottoms. Beware. Also lots of algae or long strains of green plant life. Move gently if you can.
COMMENTS? ADDITIONS? QUESTIONS? OTHER VIEWS?
(since this is a long post, please clip to only the pertinent text)
Tom :moses:
Unlike rafting, swimming while canyoneering is considered good.
Most of our swims will be potholes after a rappel. We will be in drysuits or wetsuits, and wearing packs. Here is how I swim when canyoneering, and I think it works pretty well - others might pipe in with other suggestions.
Your pack has a drybag in it that provides flotation. This is a big benefit when you ride atop it; kind of a problem when it rides atop you. Thus, when swimming, turn around and swim on your back, leaning against the pack. The flotation generally keeps your shoulders and neck out of the water, which makes it a lot easier and warmer. It is very helpful when setting up for a rappel into a pool, to cinch the waistbelt of your pack low and tight. I sometimes fasten it through my belay loop, and it helps to not put the buckle in the center, but off to one side.
Lean back against the pack and enjoy the ride. Often, the swim can be accomplished without putting your hands in the water, and this will keep you a LOT warmer. See the second picture on this page:
http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/rave/1011calendar/index.htm
The problem then becomes how to standup and get out of the pool without getting your hands wet. The key here is to stand up when the water is just above waist deep. It is common to swim until you hit bottom, and then the water is too shallow to stand up in without putting your hand down for stability.
A BIG HELP here is teamwork. Once you complete the swim, you can suggest to the next person the best place to standup. In many cases, there is no 'best place' to stand up, but a helping hand from shore or the shallows can be a big aid to the next person standing up and/or getting out of the pothole. Often the potholes are slippery, and even shallow ones CAN be difficult to get out of. A helping hand here and there goes a long way.
If rappelling into a pool, then disconnecting (which is called "the dreaded floating disconnect") might be called for. We try to set the length of the rope, so it automatically pulls through as you hit the water, but there will be exceptions. The first person down does not usually get the benefit of an accurately set rope length, and then it is their duty to use hand signals to re-set the rope to a good length (with the end 3" above the water).
Floating Disconnect: Rappel into the water, then lean back on your pack. If the rope is tight above you, pull two feet of rope through your rappel device so you have some slack. Hold still, and carefully unlock your carabiner(s) and disconnect the rope. Clip your device back into the carabiner, and CHECK IT, before letting go of it. Then you can swim away and yell OFF ROPE.
In Deer Creek, the last rap, you are usually being bombarded by water at the bottom of the rappel. What I do there is pull rope through the device as I swim away, never letting it get too tight. When I am in a convenient place, then I do the disconnect, and signal Off Rope.
In some places, there will be a drop into a pool, a swim, and then a drop into the next pool using the same rope. In the case where the swim is more than a few strokes, AND a big group, it is usually faster to set one rope end into the first pool with a stone knot, and use the other end for the second part of the rappel; so that after you rap the first part, you quickly go off-rope, then do the swim, then set up for the second part of the rappel. We probably do not want to load the anchor with two people, so wait for your opportunity to rap the second part when the first part is unweighted. Sometimes it works out that the rhythm is good and efficient - and sometimes not. Sometimes, a meat anchor can be set up for the second part, which makes the two parts on independent anchors and can be much faster. The last person will do something different, probably rapping double strand, and adjusting the first-pool-side longer for the second rappel.
COMMENTS:
Rich Rudow: Once upon a time, when nearing the final 180' free hanging rap in Sundance Canyon, Albert dropped his ATC in a deep pothole while doing a swimming disconnect. In taking pity on poor Albert, I lent him my ATC for the big rap and used a munter to rap down myself. After that speedy spinning descent I went home and tethered my ATC to my rack with 3mm cord to ensure I never drop MY ATC in a pothole. The next time I saw Albert, his ATC was tethered too :)
I use a 7mm AL rapide on the end of the tether to connect the ATC cord to my left gear loop which allows an easy disconnect when desired. I might add that Pirana users have a big advantage with swimming disconnects over ATC users since the Pirana is secured to the biner and cannot be dropped.
Sonny Lawrence: Be careful with a tether on an ATC. It can get jammed while on rappel and hang you up. Depending on the tether and how it is jammed, you might be asking for a second rope for rescue.
Tom Jones: I agree. I am anti-tether. With your pack, floating on your back, focus on the task and don't drop the device. A tether is a problem waiting to happen, please don't. If you are using a Bod or Alpine Bod without a belay loop, may I suggest using a locking biner or large rapide (10mm Aluminum) for your belay loop. This will make floating disconnects easier.
But really, the best way is to set the rope length as soon as possible, so the end of the rope can be pulled through. In my book, if you have a tether on your atc, then you also ought to have a knife at hand. Then again, knives around weighted ropes are also an accident waiting to happen...
Steve Ramras: (Tom: Most of our swims will be potholes after a rappel. We will be in drysuits or wetsuits, and wearing packs. Here is how I swim when canyoneering, and I think it works pretty well - others might pipe in with other suggestions. Your pack has a drybag in it that provides flotation. This is a big benefit when you ride atop it; kind of a problem when it rides atop you. Thus, when swimming, turn around and swim on your back, leaning against the pack. The flotation generally keeps your shoulders and neck out of the water, which makes it a lot easier and warmer.)
A good way to measure your flotation. If the water is up to the bottom of your chin....too little. If the water is up to the collarbone, then you are just right. If the water is much lower on you, then you are like a floating cork and balance can be a challenge.
(Tom: It is very helpful when setting up for a rappel into a pool, to cinch the waistbelt of your pack low and tight. I sometimes fasten it through my belay loop, and it helps to not put the buckle in the center, but off to one side.)
Sometimes cinching higher on the waist fits with the rest of the flotation system you have for right water level and balance of the float. Experiment.
(Tom: Lean back against the pack and enjoy the ride. Often, the swim can be accomplished without putting your hands in the water, and this will keep you a LOT warmer. See the second picture on this page: http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/rave/1011calendar/index.htm )
For less competent folks such as myself, I try not to ride on the backpack too hard and have it forced under water too much. This places pressure on drybag systems and failures are more common. Use it, but don't abuse it. Bleeding air out of drybags seems to help here too. Empty water bottles compensate for loss of air in the drybags
(Tom: The problem then becomes how to standup and get out of the pool without getting your hands wet. The key here is to stand up when the water is just above waist deep. It is common to swim until you hit bottom, and then the water is too shallow to stand up in without putting your hand down for stability. A BIG HELP here is teamwork. Once you complete the swim, you can suggest to the next person the best place to standup. In many cases, there is no 'best place' to stand up, but a helping hand from shore or the shallows can be a big aid to the next person standing up and/or getting out of the pothole. Often the potholes are slippery, and even shallow ones CAN be difficult to get out of. A helping hand here and there goes a long way.)
It is common courtesy to say "stand here" and then the folks behind can look over the shoulder and see where. If one gets too far into shallows and no one is there to help, one can reverse and swim back out a few yards. Much easier than trying to get upright from the shallows. If one is leading, one can troll low with one leg, while swimming, hoping to find the bottom as one swims. This costs momentum, but someone has to do it.
THIS IS IMPORTANT! On swims, calm water is MUCH faster, easier to navigate, prevents slashes of cold water on to sensitive areas like the neck. Charging thru the water, creating waves, that hit fellow swimmers makes it harder for everyone and is considered bad form. Easy does it. Bicycle pedaling motions with the legs is efficient too.
(Tom: In some places, there will be a drop into a pool, a swim, and then a drop into the next pool using the same rope. In the case where the swim is more than a few strokes, AND a big group, it is usually faster to set one rope end into the first pool with a stone knot, and use the other end for the second part of the rappel; so that after you rap the first part, you quickly go off-rope, then do the swim, then set up for the second part of the rappel. We probably do not want to load the anchor with two people, so wait for your opportunity to rap the second part when the first part is unweighted. Sometimes it works out that the rhythm is good and efficient - and sometimes not. Sometimes, a meat anchor can be set up for the second part, which makes the two parts on independent anchors and can be much faster. The last person will do something different, probably rapping double strand, and adjusting the first-pool-side longer for the second rappel.)
My limited experience with Grand Canyon, is that the swims are not that long, so much of what Tom and I have said above may be mostly educational, but not often applicable. On the other hand, stair step drops do seem to be common in these places and meat anchors in the middle of multi tier drops will likely safe time and warmth. One final thing. Many of the pools in the canyon have VERY slippery bottoms. Beware. Also lots of algae or long strains of green plant life. Move gently if you can.
COMMENTS? ADDITIONS? QUESTIONS? OTHER VIEWS?
(since this is a long post, please clip to only the pertinent text)
Tom :moses: