RAM
08-09-2010, 01:44 PM
We awoke to the rain and a glum mood. Ziff's arrival brightened the mood a bit,
but it was decided to stall rather than thrash through soaked alder and brush on
the hike in. The day slipped away, with some sleep and photos taken of the
forest. Finally in the late afternoon, we head up the hill. We are lucky to
encounter a few parties having abandoned the area and hiking out. They sweep all
the moisture off the brush and we arrive up high in mixed weather, but
personally dry.
The pictures give the impression that it is a snowy and cold place, but the area
is noted for its severe winters and us being so often in shorts gives it
away.......the days are often warm and long. But not this time. For the first
time in the 19 years up there, I see fresh snow just below the clouds, in the
late afternoon gloom. We ditch our plan for Forbidden the next day and plan
easier Sahale. Jenny decides to take that day off. A later wake up is
allowed.......but....
I awake early as always and note that it has cleared and that the fresh snow,
while present, is not nearly as pervasive as we expected. I wake Ziff. It's
decided. We switch plan again. Big mountain! Go there! Jenny lies snuggled in
her bag listening. She sighs. She will not miss Forbidden's classic West Ridge
and knows he "day off" has vanished.
The snow on approach is hollow from avalanches. Deep runnels complicating
passage. Fifty-five degree snow makes self arrest unlikely. Once on the ridge,
the year's unmelted snow makes north side bypasses on the ridge out of bounds. I
head out and climb the first 1/3 of the ridge, asking to rope up just as the
route goes mid 5th class. Up, an hour on top, then down and into camp by 7 PM. A
classic day on a classic route, with great friends. Pictures?
http://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14/WestRidgeForbiddenJuly2010#
but it was decided to stall rather than thrash through soaked alder and brush on
the hike in. The day slipped away, with some sleep and photos taken of the
forest. Finally in the late afternoon, we head up the hill. We are lucky to
encounter a few parties having abandoned the area and hiking out. They sweep all
the moisture off the brush and we arrive up high in mixed weather, but
personally dry.
The pictures give the impression that it is a snowy and cold place, but the area
is noted for its severe winters and us being so often in shorts gives it
away.......the days are often warm and long. But not this time. For the first
time in the 19 years up there, I see fresh snow just below the clouds, in the
late afternoon gloom. We ditch our plan for Forbidden the next day and plan
easier Sahale. Jenny decides to take that day off. A later wake up is
allowed.......but....
I awake early as always and note that it has cleared and that the fresh snow,
while present, is not nearly as pervasive as we expected. I wake Ziff. It's
decided. We switch plan again. Big mountain! Go there! Jenny lies snuggled in
her bag listening. She sighs. She will not miss Forbidden's classic West Ridge
and knows he "day off" has vanished.
The snow on approach is hollow from avalanches. Deep runnels complicating
passage. Fifty-five degree snow makes self arrest unlikely. Once on the ridge,
the year's unmelted snow makes north side bypasses on the ridge out of bounds. I
head out and climb the first 1/3 of the ridge, asking to rope up just as the
route goes mid 5th class. Up, an hour on top, then down and into camp by 7 PM. A
classic day on a classic route, with great friends. Pictures?
http://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14/WestRidgeForbiddenJuly2010#