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View Full Version : Trip Report Freezing in Yankee Doodle and Retreating from Spry



xxnitsuaxx
02-17-2010, 10:33 PM
For Presidents' Day we headed down to do some climbing in St. George and decided to hit Zion on the way. We stopped in Cedar to meet Rich and ask him to show us some tricks on our Totems. (does anyone else feel a little awkward referring to their "Totem"? It always sounds a little phallic to me.) He recommended Yankee Doodle and I had read about it before so we decided to try it. There was a little more water than we anticipated, but it was a good opportunity to practice a little stemming. Unfortunately my 5.9 frame and pack conspired to toss me in the water, which was a good opportunity to test the acoustics in the canyon with some yelling and possibly a profanity or two. It was a fun little canyon and I'm anxious to try it when it warms up. I'm new to the canyoneering scene but I've read all about the bolt wars so I'm curious - is the drop here bolted for a reason, or should I not even ask?

Saturday we decided to hit Spry. There were 6 of us and 4 of us had done it before. We were expecting a little snow but were surprised by how much there was. The streambed on the first part of the approach had about a foot of water in it but the slickrock on the climb was (luckily) dry. Once we hit the top of the slickrock the snow reappeared with a vengeance. Our group had two law students, two kids applying to PhD programs, one kid applying to dental school, and zero cognitive functioning. I don't know what compelled such a group of ostensibly bright people to think that as we dropped in elevation, entered a narrow canyon, and disappeared from sunlight, the snow would somehow disappear. But onward we trudged, consoling ourselves with the prospect that the top of the first rappel would be magically dry, the rest of the canyon would be dry, and there would be a hot chocolate stand at the bottom of the first rap that also sold Texas chili. As any outside observer with two functioning neurons to rub together could have predicted, the first rappel was almost unrecognizable. It looked like there had been an avalanche and snowshoes would have been more helpful than a rope. We were all well-outfitted (emergency bivvys, extra clothes, compressed down coats, a team of Sherpas, etc.) but a hasty conference and a glance at the position of the sun convinced us that retreat was a necessary, if unpleasant reality. So we moseyed back to the car, stopping to rappel the slickrock so we could pretend that we had done something. Our friend's grandmother was called, our sob story was conveyed, and nighttime found us comfortably ensconced in a house in St. George, tents in the car, jalapeno bratwursts in our stomachs, and the Olympics on TV. The moral of my story is that, if you need a lawyer, dentist, or PhD, I know of 5 people NOT to recommend.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs175.snc3/20254_724897367879_17803073_39757725_4099382_n.jpg

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs175.snc3/20254_724897462689_17803073_39757744_5230059_n.jpg

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs217.snc3/22454_724899094419_17803073_39757765_3371776_n.jpg

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs297.ash1/22454_724899154299_17803073_39757777_5015271_n.jpg
We couldn't even tell if this was the first rap.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs237.snc3/22454_724899159289_17803073_39757778_7992728_n.jpg
Responsible decisions keep us alive. But make us sad.

Bo_Beck
02-18-2010, 06:36 AM
For Presidents' Day we headed down to do some climbing in St. George and decided to hit Zion on the way. We stopped in Cedar to meet Rich and ask him to show us some tricks on our Totems. (does anyone else feel a little awkward referring to their "Totem"? It always sounds a little phallic to me.) He recommended Yankee Doodle and I had read about it before so we decided to try it. There was a little more water than we anticipated, but it was a good opportunity to practice a little stemming. Unfortunately my 5.9 frame and pack conspired to toss me in the water, which was a good opportunity to test the acoustics in the canyon with some yelling and possibly a profanity or two. It was a fun little canyon and I'm anxious to try it when it warms up. I'm new to the canyoneering scene but I've read all about the bolt wars so I'm curious - is the drop here bolted for a reason, or should I not even ask?

Saturday we decided to hit Spry. There were 6 of us and 4 of us had done it before. We were expecting a little snow but were surprised by how much there was. The streambed on the first part of the approach had about a foot of water in it but the slickrock on the climb was (luckily) dry. Once we hit the top of the slickrock the snow reappeared with a vengeance. Our group had two law students, two kids applying to PhD programs, one kid applying to dental school, and zero cognitive functioning. I don't know what compelled such a group of ostensibly bright people to think that as we dropped in elevation, entered a narrow canyon, and disappeared from sunlight, the snow would somehow disappear. But onward we trudged, consoling ourselves with the prospect that the top of the first rappel would be magically dry, the rest of the canyon would be dry, and there would be a hot chocolate stand at the bottom of the first rap that also sold Texas chili. As any outside observer with two functioning neurons to rub together could have predicted, the first rappel was almost unrecognizable. It looked like there had been an avalanche and snowshoes would have been more helpful than a rope. We were all well-outfitted (emergency bivvys, extra clothes, compressed down coats, a team of Sherpas, etc.) but a hasty conference and a glance at the position of the sun convinced us that retreat was a necessary, if unpleasant reality. So we moseyed back to the car, stopping to rappel the slickrock so we could pretend that we had done something. Our friend's grandmother was called, our sob story was conveyed, and nighttime found us comfortably ensconced in a house in St. George, tents in the car, jalapeno bratwursts in our stomachs, and the Olympics on TV. The moral of my story is that, if you need a lawyer, dentist, or PhD, I know of 5 people NOT to recommend.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs237.snc3/22454_724899159289_17803073_39757778_7992728_n.jpg
Responsible decisions keep us alive. But make us sad.

:roflol: Well written!

:2thumbs: Good Choices!

:five: Been there, done that!

:popcorn: Looking forward to the sequel!

Cirrus2000
02-18-2010, 08:03 AM
Totally great - best trip report I've read in a while!


Ah, Yankee Doodle - that's a can of worms, right there...

http://bogley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8022

http://bogley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16305

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/canyons/message/52675

Felicia
02-19-2010, 01:23 PM
Great trip report. :2thumbs:

I was wondering: did you need a permit for Spry? Did the back country desk say anything to you about the possible conditions?

Scott Card
02-19-2010, 01:48 PM
:lol8: Great TR. I have had a few turn backs in my time. I must say I am impressed that you thought you could do any canyon in Zion this time of year with the amount of snow Zion has had. I like the attempt, though. I like better your decision. :2thumbs:

hank moon
02-19-2010, 02:42 PM
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wwlLbDtd-jo/S38TjPx_kSI/AAAAAAAAA58/9swrjFZPQ7s/s800/halo%20copy.jpg

Don
02-19-2010, 02:50 PM
Nice TR. Sometimes doing the right thing really sucks. Good job. :2thumbs:

hank moon
02-19-2010, 03:08 PM
Nice TR. Sometimes doing the right thing really sucks. Good job. :2thumbs:

x2!

mtthwlw
02-19-2010, 03:48 PM
For Presidents' Day...

Saturday we decided to hit Spry. ...
We couldn't even tell if this was the first rap.

Responsible decisions keep us alive. But make us sad.

My wife and I saw your group head into Spry on Saturday (noonish?), after a hike to Jug Handle Arch, and we wondered if we'd hear anything about that group. With the conditions and the late start, we were expecting an epic.

Glad to hear that everyone made it out alive. :lol8:

xxnitsuaxx
02-22-2010, 10:40 AM
Thanks for the support from everyone - this whole "responsible choices" thing is new to our group of friends.

@Hank - thanks for the new Facebook profile pic!

@Felicia - we got a permit from the desk and the ranger told us nobody had done it in weeks and they couldn't give us any information. We called them afterwards and filled them in on the current conditions.

@Matthew - sorry to rob you of a good storytelling opportunity - "and then my wife and I were the last ones to see them alive before their frozen bodies were found in April..."

hank moon
02-22-2010, 10:59 AM
@Hank - thanks for the new Facebook profile pic!


Hee hee...welcome!

FB link?

Randi
02-22-2010, 11:46 AM
For Presidents' Day we headed down to do some climbing in St. George and decided to hit Zion on the way.....

I was in Zion over the weekend too, & was unable even to get down to the start of Pine Creek for a quick look-see. We ended up bailing Zion on Sat. AM after waking up & realizing that our plannd hike just wasn't gonna happen with a 90% chance of rain and snow! We ended up over at Snow Canyon - what a pretty place! :2thumbs:


The moral of my story is that, if you need a lawyer, dentist, or PhD, I know of 5 people NOT to recommend.

Hahahaha!

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs237.snc3/22454_724899159289_17803073_39757778_7992728_n.jpg
Responsible decisions keep us alive. But make us sad.[/quote]

CUTE photo! And a Fun little TR. Sounds like you guys made a wise decision! :2thumbs:

recinutah
02-22-2010, 12:37 PM
I've been to the top of Spry in January before, when there was no snow on the ground.

We still had to turn back.

The first rap becomes a natural ice cascade under normal winter conditions. It would be relatively treacherous any winter, I'm guessing.

If you ever try Spry in winter again, bring ice gear. I'd love to hear that trip report.

bruce from bryce
03-06-2010, 05:43 AM
Don't mean to hijack or deminish the effort of the initial poster. But...

Funny that Hank would reply but not mention 'our' aborted Spry trip in Nov '06. After the climb up and getting into our wetsuits (whoops we didn't bring any wetsuits), Tom and I headed for the 1st rappel. As we came over the top of the little ridge there we were hit with what seemed like a blast from a freezer. Brrrrrr!
Hank caught up with us and said that he could get to the anchor despite the ice, but clearer heads prevailed and Tom suggested Mountain of the Sun. While there was little snow on the mountain, what was there made it more difficult, especially since everyone was wearing 5-10s (Hank I think was in La Sportivas). This was also the first time I had climbed anything steeper than stairs. One thing I learned about following Tom on the climb up through this steep and narrow section, is that he is very deliberate. Before making a step he would brush off the snow on the rock to increase the sticking power of our shoes (Thanks Tom).