RAM
08-10-2009, 06:54 PM
Up early the next day and we found ourselves largely alone on the famed west
ridge of Forbidden. The crampons came on early and the 50 degree snow of the
coulier was hard enough, but was thin in a few spots, offering views into the
abyss. We would hear that 3 days later the bridge would collapse, complicating
the route greatly. Once on the ridge, we soloed for much of it and chose finish
on the 3 pitches of mid 5th class, on the ridge, rather than the easier and less
aesthetic north side bypasses. The summit we had to ourselves at noon. This is a
hard mountain to get off of, but after 6 ascents, by 3 different ridges, we have
become comfortable with the northeast face and east ledges route. Five single
rope rappels and then traverse. The exposed heather traverses are scary, but
quick. We packed up lower camp, in the bugs at 4 PM and were down soaking in the
river by evening. A true moderate Cascade Classic.
http://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14/Forbidden#
ridge of Forbidden. The crampons came on early and the 50 degree snow of the
coulier was hard enough, but was thin in a few spots, offering views into the
abyss. We would hear that 3 days later the bridge would collapse, complicating
the route greatly. Once on the ridge, we soloed for much of it and chose finish
on the 3 pitches of mid 5th class, on the ridge, rather than the easier and less
aesthetic north side bypasses. The summit we had to ourselves at noon. This is a
hard mountain to get off of, but after 6 ascents, by 3 different ridges, we have
become comfortable with the northeast face and east ledges route. Five single
rope rappels and then traverse. The exposed heather traverses are scary, but
quick. We packed up lower camp, in the bugs at 4 PM and were down soaking in the
river by evening. A true moderate Cascade Classic.
http://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14/Forbidden#