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Iceaxe
05-27-2009, 10:13 AM
A couple pictures from a class C canyon we did this weekend.... nothing like a little fluff to get you guys excited.

Maybe we should call the canyon "Fluff Boy". :lol8:

:popcorn:

trackrunner
05-27-2009, 10:53 AM
let me guess it starts with a P

Iceaxe
05-27-2009, 11:26 AM
I just told you.... it starts with an "F".

:haha:

moab mark
05-27-2009, 11:51 AM
Farmington Canyon?

Iceaxe
05-27-2009, 12:27 PM
Farmington Canyon?

Fluff Boy!!!! you guys need to actually read the first post and not just look at the pretty pictures.

Or maybe some of you boys just don't know what a "fluffer's" job is.... :bootyshake:

:five:

trackrunner
05-27-2009, 12:32 PM
I thought you had finally gone through Pleiades. Now that would be a teaser.

Iceaxe
05-27-2009, 12:48 PM
Tom should like this picture of me as I'm being all official by wearing my helmet and Imlay Kolob pack. :2thumbs:

http://www.bogley.com/forum/files/number1.jpg

Cirrus2000
05-27-2009, 01:01 PM
Or maybe some of you boys just don't know what a "fluffer's" job is.... :bootyshake:
You doing this as a new sideline for extra income, or just for the love of the job? :naughty:

Iceaxe
05-27-2009, 01:13 PM
You doing this as a new sideline for extra income, or just for the love of the job? :naughty:

Must be the love of the job.... because everyone already knows I'm getting rich from my website... :roflol: :roflol: :roflol:

:five:

Jaxx
05-27-2009, 02:49 PM
:popcorn:

oldno7
05-27-2009, 03:08 PM
Looks a little drier than when Mark and I were there. :nod:

That's Fumanchu canyon.

Maybe drier isn't the right word, how bout' less snow.

ratagonia
05-27-2009, 03:52 PM
A couple pictures from a class C canyon we did this weekend.... nothing like a little fluff to get you guys excited.

Maybe we should call the canyon "Fluff Boy".

:popcorn:

I donknow Ice. Not polite to name canyons after yourself... :lol8:

Tom :moses:

Iceaxe
05-27-2009, 03:57 PM
You guys see that white stuff to the left on the picture below???

That is ice!!!!!! :cold:

ratagonia
05-27-2009, 03:58 PM
Tom should like this picture of me as I'm being all official by wearing my helmet and Imlay Kolob pack. :2thumbs:


Excellent. Good to see you are finally following protocol...

Let me help ya a little with that picture, make sure everyone can see both...

:moses:

moab mark
05-27-2009, 07:22 PM
Tom,
Maybe Ice can photoshop out the water spot and make sure the imlay patch can be seen. :2thumbs:

jman
05-27-2009, 07:45 PM
hey! i was there three weeks ago....

talk about a way fun canyon - I wore a 3mm wetsuit and that was not anything near what I should of worn. Good thing it was short.

moab mark
05-27-2009, 07:55 PM
I'm very depressed that you guys have been there when it is flowing and I have only been when it is dry. :bootyshake: When it's dry it's pretty awes when wet should be the bomb.

Mark

moab mark
05-27-2009, 07:56 PM
hey! i was there three weeks ago....

talk about a way fun canyon - I wore a 3mm wetsuit and that was not anything near what I should of worn. Good thing it was short.

Was it flowing more or less than Ice's pictures.

Mark

jman
05-27-2009, 08:01 PM
hey mark

it was about the same - maybe a tad bit more.
when you went - was it completely dry or a trickle?

moab mark
05-27-2009, 08:02 PM
Trickle.

moab mark
05-27-2009, 08:03 PM
hey! i was there three weeks ago....

talk about a way fun canyon - I wore a 3mm wetsuit and that was not anything near what I should of worn. Good thing it was short.

We want pictures!!! :nod:

jman
05-27-2009, 08:09 PM
ah i see. When my group went we had a noob with us and he had a difficult time. I wouldn't recommend the canyon to anyone who isn't familiar with high-volume waterfalls...it could be deadly, especially with all that water pummeling you to death. eh... but anywho, he made it through with our help. I went cascading down Rocky Mouth Canyon on Memorial Day, and there was a high-volume of H20. It was kinda scary in the middle and my brain would of been split apart if I didn't wear a helmet - same thing goes with this canyon.

This is off-topic, but did you guys here about those two guys that died in a car accident on the way to Onion Creek (Shanes' new route in moab this month...err June). Maybe they saw that beta there...unless its a way popular hike and knew about it before - but I dont' think so. I've done it once 2 years ago and saw no-one the entire hike/day. Maybe its changed now. Anywho just a random sad thought.

jman
05-27-2009, 08:11 PM
hey! i was there three weeks ago....

talk about a way fun canyon - I wore a 3mm wetsuit and that was not anything near what I should of worn. Good thing it was short.

We want pictures!!! :nod:

I don't have one of those fancy waterproof camera that yall have - but my friend took a few shots of before and after, none unfortunately inside....

Iceaxe
05-27-2009, 09:13 PM
hey! i was there three weeks ago....

talk about a way fun canyon - I wore a 3mm wetsuit and that was not anything near what I should of worn. Good thing it was short.

You guys must have frozen your butts off, there was still ice in the canyon on Monday. I was all toasty warm in my drysuit.

And I'd like to know what everyone is using for anchors. We found no webbing in the canyon....

:popcorn:

Iceaxe
05-28-2009, 06:58 AM
Over the past 3 years this has been by far the most requested canyon....

Fluff Boy beta here! (http://climb-utah.com/Moab/pleiades.htm)

:cool2:

Jaxx
05-28-2009, 08:38 AM
Sweet! thanks for the beta. Moab is definitely on the list this year.

trackrunner
05-28-2009, 09:03 AM
I think Rock said he found some other canyons like this near by. Did you see or do these?

Plan on going back in the winter and doing this as an ice climb?

Iceaxe
05-28-2009, 09:34 AM
I think Rock said he found some other canyons like this near by. Did you see or do these?

Yeah, I know where Rock (and a few others) are talking about, it has some promise. Rock and I did a lot of exploring, canyons and talking when he lived in Monticello. I can't wait for him to move back to the Moab area so we can do more. Rock is a great partner... we understand each others jokes when others miss the humor and just roll their eyes....


Plan on going back in the winter and doing this as an ice climb?

I heard Dave Black fell and was injuried this past winter while ice climbing one of "Matt's Canyons". I assumed this was the canyon he fell in. I'm just a hacker when it comes to ice climbing. But I bet Jumar is thinking of giving it a whirl. I'd really like to hear from someone who has ice climbed the route.

:popcorn:

trackrunner
05-28-2009, 09:54 AM
I heard Dave Black fell and was injuried this past winter while ice climbing one of "Matt's Canyons". I assumed this was the canyon he fell in.

Yeah what happened to Dave is what made me ask the question. I believe he was self belaying himself climbing with a Bachmann knot.

moab mark
05-28-2009, 10:11 AM
I am just guessing but I bet this is not where Dave fell. If you look at the pictures (the one above that is posted) and from someone who has been there in October and November there isn't more than a trickle of water. I am not an ice climber but doesn't it take ice to climb. :roflol: Also the amount of snow in that area would make it pretty diffucult to hike in there. You may come up from the bottom.... The other one that you guys are talking about would have strong running water until it froze. There may be promise there.
But I do not know of any drops in that canyon unless just dropping in from the road. I went over to the ACA site and tried to search for the post but could not find it. Maybe someone with a better understanding of that site can pull it up.
:popcorn:
Mark

Iceaxe
05-28-2009, 11:13 AM
I am just guessing but I bet this is not where Dave fell. If you look at the pictures (the one above that is posted) and from someone who has been there in October and November there isn't more than a trickle of water. I am not an ice climber but doesn't it take ice to climb. :roflol:

Dave Black's fall was in Pleiades.

And as to your ice climbing question about a trickle of water

trackrunner
05-28-2009, 11:18 AM
I went over to the ACA site and tried to search for the post but could not find it. Maybe someone with a better understanding of that site can pull it up.


Here is a link to the quote Ice axe beet me to.

http://canyoneering.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2651


Just thought I'd run this little accident by you. Definitely shows the disadvantages of using bachmann's for self-belay. Use it in the forum on accidents if you want.

Yesterday late afternoon I went up to Matt's wet canyon (Pleiades) to do it as a night ice climb. We rapped down and left fixed lines at all the drops, including a 200 foot rope that reached all the way from the 2nd to the bottom of the 6th drop. This was a group of beginners and the idea was that I would climb all the pitches first and belay one person up to do the remaining belays while I went on to do the next pitch. The 7th, 6th, and 5th drops went fine. The ice on the 4th pitch (about 40 feet and dead vertical with overhanging icicles) ended at the underside of the ledge above it. I decided to belay myself on this using a bachmann attached to a runner from my harness. It sucked trying to move the bachmann along while clinging to vertical ice, but it seemed to be going relatively well. At the top of the column where the ice disappeared my hand slipped off one of my leashless axes while I was trying to plant the other axe. When my hand slipped, it basically came down on the top of the bachmann before my fall had a chance to weight it. The bachmann was therefore blocked by my hand and slid freely down the rope. I fell about 30 feet until my crampons made contact with the base of the column, and then catapulted out over the ledge and fell another ten feet, landing squarely on my back on a large flat boulder covered with about two inches of mushy snow. If I had been a foot or two in any other direction I would have fallen the entire length of the rope to the bottom of the 6th drop. No doubt it would have been fatal. The fall onto my backed knocked the wind out of me but otherwise did not injure me except for some minor bruising and an unhappy wrist. After recovering for a few minutes, I jugged the 4th pitch rather than climb it again.

This is the first time I've seen a bachmann fail like this. I've used bachmanns quite a bit for self-belays. Usualy in a fall the weight loads the bachmann too quickly for this to happen. Live and learn. I guess the moral of the story is ... take your mechanical ascenders.

moab mark
05-28-2009, 11:56 AM
I must be getting old. When I read that post the first time do not remember it saying plieades. As has been shown I do not know diddly about ice climbing but I would like to see pictures of someone ascending that canyon in jan with probably 6 or 7 ft of snow on the ground.

Iceaxe
05-28-2009, 12:10 PM
but I would like to see pictures of someone ascending that canyon in jan with probably 6 or 7 ft of snow on the ground.

I don't see where the snow would be an issue to ice climbing. We climb things like The Great White Icicle and Bridel Veil Falls all the time in winter with 6 or 7 feet of snow on the ground. A lot of time a long snow approach is just part of the deal when it comes to climbing ice. Similar to canyoneers wandering for miles across the desert in July... same-same but different.

FWIW: I would not be surprised if it were ice climbers who first uncovered Pleiades. They are always following water to waterfalls. Several canyoneering routes I know of were first ice climbing routes.

:popcorn:

moab mark
05-28-2009, 01:36 PM
I understand that the snow has nothing to do with ice climbing. Snowshoeing to the canyon to some may be part of the fun. But the post on the aca makes it sound like headed up in the afternoon jumped out set up the rope and played. I would like to see pictures of this. The post states took a bunch of beginners. Does not seem like a place you would take beginners in the middle of january at night. Ice you've now been there, does it seem like a reasonably easy adventure in January? But we have gotten off track.

It's a great slot canyon and for those that are headed out to do it you will not be disappointed.

Mark

jumar
05-28-2009, 01:41 PM
[quote=moab mark]I am just guessing but I bet this is not where Dave fell. If you look at the pictures (the one above that is posted) and from someone who has been there in October and November there isn't more than a trickle of water. I am not an ice climber but doesn't it take ice to climb. :roflol:

Dave Black's fall was in Pleiades.

And as to your ice climbing question about a trickle of water

Iceaxe
05-28-2009, 02:29 PM
I understand that the snow has nothing to do with ice climbing. Snowshoeing to the canyon to some may be part of the fun. But the post on the aca makes it sound like headed up in the afternoon jumped out set up the rope and played. I would like to see pictures of this. The post states took a bunch of beginners. Does not seem like a place you would take beginners in the middle of january at night. Ice you've now been there, does it seem like a reasonably easy adventure in January?

If you knew Dave Black this sounds totally reasonable.... and Ice Climbing is often done at night when the ice is most stable and the crowds are small. This route would just be an easy evening romp to an ice climber. They came in from the top, rappelled down to the bottom and climbed back out. From what I understand Dave was actually self belaying from his top rope. Climbing this ice route should take no more time and be no more difficult than canyoneering the route in summer (depending on ice conditions).

I think you are trying to make ice climbing way more exotic than it is.... ice climbing is as easy as canyoneering in its own way. Different problems, but to someone skilled its just as simple.

FWIW: Dave Black is an accomplished ice climber and author of the book "Ice Climbing Utah".

Ice Climbing Utah
http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Climbing-Utah-Regional-Rock/dp/1585920606

:popcorn:

jman
05-28-2009, 06:40 PM
Weird...we left webbing there. I heard a group on ACA went a week after we went - they might of removed it all. I dunno...

I found a video of Pleadies if anyone is interested...

http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=54767622

And here are some pics of Pleiades when there is Ice.

Iceaxe
05-29-2009, 11:58 AM
I found a video of Pleadies if anyone is interested...

Please do not wrap your ropes around living trees without a sling like the clowns in the video. It will eventually kill the tree.

Thanks, that is all....

.

Iceaxe
05-29-2009, 12:01 PM
Jman... I see crampons and ice tools in one of your pictures.... did you climb the falls?

ajroadtrips
05-29-2009, 12:55 PM
Weird...we left webbing there. I heard a group on ACA went a week after we went - they might of removed it all. I dunno...

And here are some pics of Pleiades when there is Ice.

Those are great, and remind me of the trip Cristina and I did in there last fall. We had ice on the walls in several spots, but still flowing. Beautiful. The 4th rappel deposited us in a virtual ice cave. Neat.

It's a special place I hope people will treat with respect. Be careful on the second rappel anchor. I almost stuck a rope there, and have heard of others that have stuck ropes there. (Easy to avoid, just choose a good anchor and pull direction.)

jman
05-29-2009, 01:09 PM
Jman... I see crampons and ice tools in one of your pictures.... did you climb the falls?

those are my friends who climbed it this year in early march. First, they went the normal route and after it was "safe", they decided to top-rop it and climbed back up the icefalls. Very cool!

I didn't realize in that video they didn't use slings. You think they would of been smarter.

ratagonia
05-29-2009, 05:32 PM
Weird...we left webbing there. I heard a group on ACA went a week after we went - they might of removed it all. I dunno...

And here are some pics of Pleiades when there is Ice.

Those are great, and remind me of the trip Cristina and I did in there last fall. We had ice on the walls in several spots, but still flowing. Beautiful. The 4th rappel deposited us in a virtual ice cave. Neat.

It's a special place I hope people will treat with respect. Be careful on the second rappel anchor. I almost stuck a rope there, and have heard of others that have stuck ropes there. (Easy to avoid, just choose a good anchor and pull direction.)

Hmmm. Maybe it is just my personal curmudgeonlyness, but I would really appreciate it if you and Shane would NOT call it Pleiades. That is Matt's name for the product he sells, and using his name for it is, ... um, impolite. How about naming it after Shane and calling it "Fluff Boy"? Or using the name on the map. :haha:

Tom :moses:

ratagonia
05-29-2009, 05:43 PM
I found a video of Pleadies if anyone is interested...

Please do not wrap your ropes around living trees without a sling like the clowns in the video. It will eventually kill the tree.

Thanks, that is all....

.

Looks like they used a macrame for that. Which will eventually kill something other than the tree... :pope:

If'n you're worried about leaving a sling, go back and fetch it when you're done.

Tom :moses:

rockgremlin
05-29-2009, 10:37 PM
Hmmm. Maybe it is just my personal curmudgeonlyness, but I would really appreciate it if you and Shane would NOT call it Pleiades. That is Matt's name for the product he sells, and using his name for it is, ... um, impolite. How about naming it after Shane and calling it "Fluff Boy"? Or using the name on the map. :haha:

Tom :moses:

CONCUR.



I can't wait for him to move back to the Moab area so we can do more.

I've spent the better part of this week house hunting in Moab. I should be settled in by mid-June. :2thumbs:

moab mark
05-29-2009, 10:45 PM
Rock,
If you are still in moab and want to tag along probably going to head out tomorrow afternoon with my two boys and do entrajo.
Mark

moab mark
05-29-2009, 10:50 PM
Hmmm. Maybe it is just my personal curmudgeonlyness, but I would really appreciate it if you and Shane would NOT call it Pleiades. That is Matt's name for the product he sells, and using his name for it is, ... um, impolite. How about naming it after Shane and calling it "Fluff Boy"? Or using the name on the map. :haha:

Tom :moses:

CONCUR.



I can't wait for him to move back to the Moab area so we can do more.

I've spent the better part of this week house hunting in Moab. I should be settled in by mid-June. :2thumbs:

Desert Highlights is not the only company guiding Plieades

http://www.moabdesertadventures.com/canyoneering.htm

Whatever name is chosen with multiple guide companies using that name its probably going to stick.


Mark

rockgremlin
05-29-2009, 10:53 PM
Hmmm Pluff Boy is quite short. Several Moabites have told me that another short stretch of slot may be found farther down Brumley Creek just down off of the Spanish Valley overlook. Probably not as impressive as Pluff Boy, but a definite slot canyon nevertheless.

rockgremlin
05-29-2009, 10:54 PM
Rock,
If you are still in moab and want to tag along probably going to head out tomorrow afternoon with my two boys and do entrajo.
Mark


I'll be in Moab Monday evening through Friday night. If you're still there let's hook up.

moab mark
05-29-2009, 11:03 PM
Headed home Sunday night. Going to be back in a couple of weeks to hit the canyon in the lasals when it is flowing. If your moved in well have to hit it together.

Mark

Iceaxe
05-30-2009, 12:05 PM
Hmmm. Maybe it is just my personal curmudgeonlyness, but I would really appreciate it if you and Shane would NOT call it Pleiades.

Hey there Frosted Flakes.... I'm not a big fan of making up multiple names for the same route, it goes against my better judgement. Multiple names does nothing but create chaos and confusion, which is usually the reason a new name is fabricated to begin with. I always try to stick with the popular name when one exists. If an obscure route is given to me I always try to respect the person who sent me the route and use their name for it.

I notice Matt guides Lomatium, The Black Hole, Leprechaun, etc, under those names so I fail to see the big deal, but maybe I'm missing something.

That being said.... If Matt wants to ping me sideband and wants the route listed as Brumley Creek I have no problem with that.... but he will also lose the free product placement I provide for Desert Highlights on that page as there will no longer be a reason to cross reference.....

:cool2:

moab mark
05-30-2009, 03:56 PM
Hmmm Pluff Boy is quite short. Several Moabites have told me that another short stretch of slot may be found farther down Brumley Creek just down off of the Spanish Valley overlook. Probably not as impressive as Pluff Boy, but a definite slot canyon nevertheless.

If you are looking off of the spanish valley overlook to the north? That would be another one of desert highlights. Tried to do it today and it rained. :frustrated: That one is not actually in the brumley creek drainage so there could be another.

Mark

Scott P
05-30-2009, 05:50 PM
I'm not a big fan of making up multiple names for the same route, it goes against my better judgement. Multiple names does nothing but create chaos and confusion, which is usually the reason a new name is fabricated to begin with. I always try to stick with the popular name when one exists.

Would the name on the topo map work?

Iceaxe
05-31-2009, 11:05 AM
Would the name on the topo map work?

It's currently listed both ways on my website. It's listed by route name and by drainage name (on the CoF members page)....

Personally I think this is like trying to put the genie back in the bottle. No matter how much Tom campaigns, no matter what I or anyone else writes, the route will always and forever more be known and referred to as Pleiades.

Tilting at windmills.....

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_2f2ywPBeTyM/SFWTbWTAHWI/AAAAAAAABHQ/LgfyI3liBZ0/s400/Don_Quixote.jpg

ratagonia
05-31-2009, 06:18 PM
Would the name on the topo map work?

It's currently listed both ways on my website. It's listed by route name and by drainage name (on the CoF members page)....

Personally I think this is like trying to put the genie back in the bottle. No matter how much Tom campaigns, no matter what I or anyone else writes, the route will always and forever more be known and referred to as Pleiades.

Tilting at windmills.....


I make no claim otherwise....

Tom :moses:

ratagonia
05-31-2009, 06:20 PM
Hey there Frosted Flakes.... I'm not a big fan of making up multiple names for the same route, it goes against my better judgement. Multiple names does nothing but create chaos and confusion, which is usually the reason a new name is fabricated to begin with. I always try to stick with the popular name when one exists. If an obscure route is given to me I always try to respect the person who sent me the route and use their name for it.

I notice Matt guides Lomatium, The Black Hole, Leprechaun, etc, under those names so I fail to see the big deal, but maybe I'm missing something.

That being said.... If Matt wants to ping me sideband and wants the route listed as Brumley Creek I have no problem with that.... but he will also lose the free product placement I provide for Desert Highlights on that page as there will no longer be a reason to cross reference.....

:cool2:

coupleapoints...

1. We have a NEW Frosted Flakes - a side branch into Big Tony. It's Good!

2. I think "Lomatium" is Matt's name.

3. The other canyons already HAD a popular name when Matt signed up to guide them.

4. Hey!!! I'm just trying to be curmudgeonly.

T :moses:

Iceaxe
06-01-2009, 08:59 AM
1. We have a NEW Frosted Flakes - a side branch into Big Tony. It's Good!

So I've heard. :2thumbs:



2. I think "Lomatium" is Matt's name.

All I know is that the rangers in Arches call it Lomatium Canyon, which makes it the official name in my book.

If nothing else I consider standardizing names a safety issue... when you run to the Visitor Center saying your friend broke his leg in Skull Hall and the park knows the route as Lomatium it causes problems.

That and I don't like getting a phone call at 4 am from the rangers asking where the hell "yada-yada canyon" is and could I send them a route description, which has happened more than once.


4. Hey!!! I'm just trying to be curmudgeonly.

You get a new Thesaurus for your birthday? :haha:

:cool2:

oldno7
06-08-2009, 04:48 AM
We had 4 groups go through Pleides this last weekend, flow is still high. This canyon should be on everyones list if you have the proper training for high flowing class "c". If you don't have a class "c" toolbox, get one and go do this canyon. :nod:
If your not sure, you might want to stay out, this canyon has potential to do harm to the un-prepared.