Buckskin Gulch

[french_de]

On our way back from the Marble Canyon Fest, we took a side trip to Buckskin Gulch. Since this is a canyoneering trip we decided to take a semi technical approach to a normally non technical canyon by climbing down to the canyon bottom at the Middle Route.

On our way north out of Page, AZ we made a quick stop for a view of the Glen Canyon Dam. The Dam is quandary for me; I marvel at the incredible engineering feat but I mourn the Glen’s amazing places that were lost to water and tons of silt. This dam was built mainly to catch the sediment that would have very quickly clogged Lake Mead. \r\n\r\n The trailhead from the Upper West Clark bench down to the Middle Route entrance is a nice 1.5 mile hike thru sandstone cliffs and washes with great views of distant Coyote Buttes, and Steamboat Rock. The middle route at the ledge has two parts. The upper part has a crack to climb down thru. The lower harder section is a down climb into the bottom of Buckskin. This section is a little sketchy in places with the wind blown sand on the ledges adding to the difficulty, but with a piece of webbing for a hand line, we made it down easily. \r\n At the bottom of middle route we found the three big horn sheep petro glyph sections including the scorpion. Quite a collection in this one spot. On the other side of the canyon about two thirds the way up the cliff ledges are a group of moki steps. \r\n Buckskin was muddy, and had some snow in it but the canyon did not disappoint with its deep, bending, twisting and multicolored walls. I like those long hallway sections that end in an abrupt turn. \r\n With a hand line we were able to ascend back up the Middle route.

[Cirrus2000]

Excellent! Thanks for sharing that. When I did Buckskin and Paria solo a couple of years ago, I started up the middle route, but chickened out partway because: 1. I was alone and didn't want to get ledged up or slip, and 2. I was worried about running out of daylight (March 1 = short days). Thanks for letting me have a look at the bits I missed!

Looks like a good trip!

[Iceaxe]

This dam was built mainly to catch the sediment that would have very quickly clogged Lake Mead.

Sediment containment was not even a major consideration.....

The purpose of the dam is to generate electricity and provide water storage so the upper basin states can meet delivery requirements to the lower basin states in times of drought.

The dam furnishes the long-time regulatory storage needed to permit States in the upper basin to meet their flow obligation at Lees Ferry, Arizona, (as defined in the Colorado River Compact) and still use their apportioned water.

If anyone is really interested in the dam and western water they should read two excellent books

A Story That Stands Like a Dam
by Russell Martin

and

Cadillac Desert
by Marc Reisner

:popcorn:

[Rob L]

I like the distance photos of your group; we don't get to see pics like that too often. It gives a scale to things.

[thedesertnomad]

I am actually kind of shocked to see that cat still there. We found it in considerably better condition in October 08 -
http://thedesertnomad.com/Buckskin2008/pages/Buck08%20006.html

[oldno7]

All I can say is--The French D crew can cover a canyon well. Looks like a bunch of working ant's. Nice TR. :2thumbs:

[french_de]

I am actually kind of shocked to see that cat still there. We found it in considerably better condition in October 08 -
http://thedesertnomad.com/Buckskin2008/pages/Buck08%20006.html Thanks for posting that pic. Maybe the cold air and salty buckskin water deters decompostion. Now it really looks like a bobcat.

[tanya]

Nice photos!

[french_de]

Iceaxe wrote:
If anyone is really interested in the dam and western water they should read two excellent books

A Story That Stands Like a Dam
by Russell Martin
and
Cadillac Desert
by Marc Reisner

My girlfriend gave me the Cadillac Desert for Valentines Day. That is a great book. :nod: As is quoted on the cover; A savagely witty history of America's reckless depletion of its water resources. The information on Floyd Dominey, Bureau of Reclamation Commissioner from May 1, 1959 to 1969 is an eye opener. Dominy was on track to build two more dams down the Grand Canyon area. Nixon had him fired very soon after taking office.

I'll will have to read
A Story That Stands Like a Dam[/b]
by Russell Martin :nod:


:

[Iceaxe]

I'll will have to read A Story That Stands Like a Dam

I think canyoneers will be most interested in "A Story That Stands Like a Dam" as it is totally about Glen Canyon and the dam. Canyoneers will already know many of the places talked about in the book. The book does a good job of covering both sides of the dam issue.


Dominy was on track to build two more dams down the Grand Canyon area.

More dams then just those two were on the drawing board..... a dam was planned for Echo Park (Dinosaur National Monument). One in Desolation Canyon. One in Catarct Canyon (The dam was going to back slack water up to Moab.).... the orginal vision was a staircase of hydro dams from the mountains to the ocean.

:blahblah:

[nelsonccc]

If anyone is really interested in the dam and western water they should read two excellent books

Cadillac Desert
by Marc Reisner



Strongly echo the Cadillac Desert book. One of the best I've read for the water situations in the west.

[RedRoxx]

Or Katie Lee's "All My Rivers are Gone" which has been re-released with a new title I think. I was very fortunate to spend some time in this lovely ladies home and talk with her one on one. Her time in the Glen must have been incredible.

[Rhonda]

Thank you

[DiscGo]

This was a really enjoyable TR. I enjoyed the pictures from the very start of just seeing people hike to the trail. It captured a fun hike. Thank you for posting this. I have wanted to see more of Buckskin Gulch since someone posted a picture from it last year, so I really enjoyed this TR.

[kiwi_outdoors]

How was the road into the Middle Route trailhead? My wife and I are early 60s and plan to do Buckskin as a day trip from Wire Pass - not going too far, AND as a 2nd day trip as an in-and-out using Middle. This reduces the high mileage and the pack weight. Thanks to the excellent photo essay I can see that Middle Route is very do-able for us. And the Jeep should be fine for getting to the Middle Route trailhead.

[oldno7]

How was the road into the Middle Route trailhead? My wife and I are early 60s and plan to do Buckskin as a day trip from Wire Pass - not going too far, AND as a 2nd day trip as an in-and-out using Middle. This reduces the high mileage and the pack weight. Thanks to the excellent photo essay I can see that Middle Route is very do-able for us. And the Jeep should be fine for getting to the Middle Route trailhead.

As of a year ago--the road required a 4wd to navigate 1-washout.
If you don't mind the extra hiking, parking at the wash adds about 1 mile to the trailhead.
We hiked the extra mile. If there was a second vehicle, I'd opt to drive through the washout.
Could have gotten better or worse since last Winter, hard to say. Hopefully someone can give you a more recent report.

[spinesnaper]

I would add to that that the section of Buckskin from Wirepass to the Middle Route is a remarkably long (and amazing) 6 miles. I have done it a couple of times now and I am always personally disappointed how long it takes me to get to the Middle Route which is roughly halfway through. The second half form the Middle Route to the confluence seems to go much faster.

If I had to choose between going from wirepass to the Middle Route and then out or going down the middle route, camping near the confluence and then returning back up Buckskin and out the Middle Route, I would choose the later because the confluence is such a unique place. If you are not technically inclined, the 12 foot drop toward the end of Buckskin might be a challenge unless the rabbit hole is open. Also before you get to this drop, there is a second lesser barrier that might touch on a couple of class 4 moves. So be aware of these concerns and inquire about conditions before committing to that course.

Either way, it is a very worthwhile journey.

One other thing that might be worth considering if you are planning on camping as part of your trip is water supply. While there may be water in the segment of Buckskin between Wirepass and the Middle Route, it may be so muddy as to be unfilterable without considerable settling. I would be interested in knowing if others with more Middle Route experience would consider caching water at the top of the Middle Route just in case?

Ken