Weat Chex? Checkerboard Mesa in Zion.

[climbinghalfdome]

I did that continuous crack/runnel on the Checkerboard yesterday. It was fun and definatly an adventure. Its the main crack that is continuous to the top (Well almost). The only piece of gear I saw was an OLD bong 1/2 burried by sand at the start of pitch 2. The first and third pitches were the BEST and I'd say they were 5.8 R and FUN. Gear was interesting and with no perminant belays, you can really stretch the rope out. The fourth pitch could be a direct shot up to the top if there were a few fixed pins. The crack disapears and falling 60+ feet on slab isn't inviting. Instead we traversed left at the big tree, then up a gully. After toping out we wandered around till we found a path leading down the Eastern slot. Took 6 hours total.

The big question is;
Who and when was the First Ascent?
Any other routes Folks know of?
Kevin

[Brian in SLC]

IThe big question is;
Who and when was the First Ascent?
Any other routes Folks know of?

I seem to recall the park had some info in the "black book" and maybe a route topo even. The main face has been a well known route for many years, and, has seen a few ascents.

A friend did a variation and/or new route somewhere on the face. The infamous Brutus of Wyde. I believe he left his route info at the park.

The guys at Zion Rock maintain a HUGE notebook of route info. I'd give them a try for specifics too.

-Brian in SLC

[Brian in SLC]

I did that continuous crack/runnel on the Checkerboard yesterday.
The big question is;Who and when was the First Ascent?

Some recent info I've seen:

Carter Howell and Eric Sanford in April of 1976.

Jim Beyer purportedly did a bunch of routes on Crazy Quilt to the west as well in the 70's.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

[Bo_Beck]

I did that continuous crack/runnel on the Checkerboard yesterday. It was fun and definatly an adventure. Its the main crack that is continuous to the top (Well almost). The only piece of gear I saw was an OLD bong 1/2 burried by sand at the start of pitch 2. The first and third pitches were the BEST and I'd say they were 5.8 R and FUN. Gear was interesting and with no perminant belays, you can really stretch the rope out. The fourth pitch could be a direct shot up to the top if there were a few fixed pins. The crack disapears and falling 60+ feet on slab isn't inviting. Instead we traversed left at the big tree, then up a gully. After toping out we wandered around till we found a path leading down the Eastern slot. Took 6 hours total.

The big question is;
Who and when was the First Ascent?
Any other routes Folks know of?
Kevin

Not too sure of the first ascent, but I know that Bill Murphy had the first Skiing Descent! :ne_nau:

I did the route you refer to "Wheat Chex" back in 1993 with Wayne Harding. It was our very first "naturally protected multipitch" ever! I remember 2 "bongs" half buried? I also remember the 2 last pitches as being very wet and gritty? It was an adventure as you suggest. One thing it did for Wayne and I is to catapult us onto other goods. Thereafter he and I had fun adventures doing a 1st on Paria Point at 5.11, A-3+ V, then went onto the two classcis in Snow Canyon, "Living on the Edge" 4P-5.10, and "Aftershock" 4P-5.11.

Wheat Chex was a stimulus for us at the time to move on! I would love to go back and climb it again! (Maybe even ski it with enough coverage, Bill Murphy! You are awesome!)