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View Full Version : Trip Report TR: Canyonlands, Maze District.



kris
03-27-2007, 06:55 PM
Okay, I will try and narrate this the best I can. First, I must say I had an awesome time, and saw some really neat places. I was not able to really get out and explore different areas, but had to stick to the "marked" trails.

We started off by leaving Draper around 12pm Thursday afternoon. Armed with a National Geographic Canyonlands map, a book on "Hiking, Biking, and Exploring Canyonlands" By Micheal R. Kelsey, all our gear needed, 10 extra gallons of fuel, and a weather report. The weather report predicted 30% chance of showers Friday and Saturday. No big deal we figured.

We arrived near Hans Flat around 5pm, and upon recommendation from denaliguide, we decided to camp at French Springs Canyon, which is on BLM land. This was an great place to camp at. Great views, and we figured if the trip was full of canyons like this, it would be a great one. We did a little scrambling, and some rappelling before the light ran out. Thanks again for that recommendation.

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That next morning, around 7:30am, after we were finishing up breakfast, the showers started. At this time it was a slight sprinkle. We cleaned up camp, and headed to the ranger station to get our permit. After half an hour there, going over all the rules and regs with the lady, she warned us of the clay on the roads. I cannot remember the name, but she said it was worse than ice when wet. We hoped to be passed most of it before the majority of the rain came. Her updated weather report now said 70% chance for Friday and Saturday. Yuck. We headed off down the road, towards flint trail. These pictures are from the overlook, just getting ready to go over the dive. Really, so far, I would really recommend a 4x4 rig, as when it gets wet and muddy, it gets sketchy in places.

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We made it down that no problems, even made it past the clay. Seems the rain was not enough to turn it into slime yet. Once down, we came to the junction to head either to the Maze Overlook, or to the Dollhouse. This is where things go downhill. Our original plan was to go to the overlook, and start from there. A last minute change in plans, sent us off towards the dollhouse. I have learned from that, always stick to your original plan! Oh, we also past one of the park rangers, who was on his way out from staying at the dollhouse for three days. He checked our permits, talked about the flowers, and then took off.

The route to the dollhouse road for the first little bit, follows along the edge of the plateau, as can be seen here:

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/kbruington/maze/7.jpg

90% of the grayish/purple dirt is the slimy clay. On our way through, it was dry. No big deal for now. Here is looking down into the valley, roughly around teapot camp, on the lower section of dollhouse:

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/kbruington/maze/8.jpg

So, we drive for roughly an hour, when we hit the junction of hite road, and the dollhouse road. The rain has started to pickup a little harder now. I figure as long as we can make it through to the dollhouse, we should be fine, and we will not have to deal witht he clay. I must say, that this road is definatly 4x4 only, and I would recommend a lifted rig, or at least some under armor. It is pretty rough. After roughly another 1 1/2 hours of slow going, over rough areas, I came to one pretty sketchy corner. It was wet, slippery, right on a cliffs edge of about 30 ft. I probably would have been fine with all the above, but seeing that pretty much every other person had scraped their bottom, I kind of chickened out. My oil pan does not have any covering, and it would sit right where the crapes were. After about ten minutes of checking, thinking, and re-checking, I decided to err on caution, not wanting to damage anything, decided to turn around.

After turning around, and slowly making it back towards the junction of hite and dollhouse, the clouds unleashed what I figured was half the areas anual 6" of rain, all within 20 minutes. I was dreading the areas of the clay, thinking that maybe we would be fine, or it can't possibly be that bad. Boy was I wrong. As I was making the last steep climb up to the plateau, I was stuck. The clay was like slime, sticking to the tire treads like thick past. The funny part is, it pulls the top 2-3" of mud up, exposing dry sand underneath. Very frustrating. I tried getting up the hill another time, and nothing. Not wanting to tear the road up, we parked. After sitting for roughly 1 1/2-2 hours, I said there is no way in he** I came all the way out here, to get stuck. I started walking, and scouting the road to see how much clay there was. After figuring how to navigate, and try to get around it all, I attempted again. Finally, success.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/kbruington/maze/9.jpg

Now, on our way to the maze overlook, and hopefully better outcomes! After driving along the maze overlook road, roughly half way, we saw a lone set of fresh boot tracks on the road. Never saw a person though, it looks like they dove off into Horse Canyon.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/kbruington/maze/10.jpg
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Horse Canyon
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Success! The maze overlook! At roughly 6:30PM
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The storm looked like it was starting to clear up too, maybe Saturday would be a good day! Nope, it started pouring rain, again, at about 5am. I was sleeping in the back of the truck, when my buddy came knocking wanting in. The other slept in a rock outcropping by the camp parking. :)


Saturday

It continued to rain, pretty hard off and on, through most of the morning. I didn't mind hiking in the rain, but we decided to see if it cleared up, just to be on the safe side. No sense in slipping all over the place trying to get down to the bottom. Then it dawned on me, if it rains all weekend, there is no way I am making it out on Monday, through that clay. If the wife doesn't hear from me by then, she might start calling around. :eek2: So we started to make plans, that if it kept up raining, we would possibly have to bail to the ranger station on Monday. Again, not something I wanted to do. Then, I had a strange, technology idea, if I could see all the way out to the Moab area, maybe I could get cell service? Sure enough, I was able to get enough service to send/receive text messages. Yeah, I know, something I really didn't want to deal with in a nice place like this. But it secured as many days as needed down here, until things dried out. :D

Back to the rain, it finally stopped around 2pm, and we jumped at the chance. We grabbed our gear, and off we went. We knew the pace was going to be quicker than we wanted. We needed to cover ground, to make up for time we lost.

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Our goal was to make it to Spanish Bottom that night, which we did at a little after 8pm. Here is Spanish Bottom Sunday morning. Total miles, just over 13

Sunday
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From there it was on to the river overlook.

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Notice this picture of the river. The confluence is just around the bend, and you can still see the different colors of the Colorado and Green Rivers. Kind of neat.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/kbruington/maze/38.jpg
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Ahh, quick 30 minute nap after lunch. The day has turned out gorgeous, mostly blue skies, and right around 70 degrees. Looks like the rodas should dry out.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/kbruington/maze/40.jpg

Off we go, through water canyon, and on over to shot canyon. Our goal is to camp somewhere on petes mesa. We did see one person in water canyon, filtering some water. Did the old head nod, and on we went. No sense in disturbing ones peace.
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Here is Jasper Canyon, which I really wanted to go through, however the park service has it closed until who knows when. It is one of the few canyons that has never been grazed by domestic animals, and had really never seen people. So they want to preserve it, and do parkie studies in it. :)
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/kbruington/maze/49.jpg
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Finally, down onto Petes Mesa a bit, for an early night. We put on some miles today. Total mileage, 14.5
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Monday
Sunrise on the mesa:
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Then away we go, dropping into one of the side canyons in South Fork. after a mile or two down here, we say an older lady by herself, filtering water. Again we said hello, and hurried on our way. We wanted to get to the truck by 12pm, and get on our way home.
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We actually arrived at the truck around 10:30, completing about 4.5 miles for the finish. We loaded up, and were on our way by 11am. We figured the roads should be dry, and we would have little problems.

On our way out, roughly at Horse Canyon, we passed a group of about 8 mountain bikers. Said hello, and kept going. A few miles down the road, we passed an old cranky guy hiking in. He told us that flint trail road was closed, due to rock slide. Nooooo! He then said if we would have taken the time to talk to the bikers, they would have told us that. Whatever. Not liking this news, we rode in silence for another 20 minutes or so. Then comes a park ranger, who explained the same thing. He had made the drive in through Hite, and said it was long, bumpy, but open. He asked if we had enough fuel, which we did, and away we went.

Upon coming to the flint trail/overlook junction we saw a group of maybe 6-7 hikers, all with new gear. Looks like we made it out just in time. :)
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/kbruington/maze/58.jpg

Also, on our way into Hite, I would say maybe 5-7 miles from the pavement, we past two road graders, and a front end loader. They had started from the pavement, working in, trying to smoothen the road out, and making it almost two rigs wide. I sure hope they don't plan on doing that all the way in to the park.

If you have made it through all of this, thanks for reading. This has been my first trip to the area, of my own doing. I learned about the area through this website, and I thank you all for that also. Any questions, let me know. I also have about two hundred more pictures, but they are all great. It was hard to choose which ones to show.

asdf
03-27-2007, 07:08 PM
Great trip report
your pics are excellent! :2thumbs:
i love this one

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/kbruington/maze/40.jpg

stefan
03-27-2007, 07:44 PM
woooow. really REALLY nice photos man.

many thanks :2thumbs:

Udink
03-27-2007, 07:58 PM
Wow! I loved that you wrote up so much, it made the pictures that much better. With all these TRs of the Maze, I'm definitely going to have to hit that area (someday). Sounds like I might need some mud tires first. :smile:

DiscGo
03-27-2007, 08:31 PM
Wow! Thank you so much for posting this! I am putting this trip on the planner for 07! I loved your pictures!

marc olivares
03-27-2007, 08:36 PM
nice job :2thumbs:

at the risk of sounding like a jerk, dont be afraid to post up more shots of you and your friends. most of the fun, of doing these trips, is w/ the company that we keep. camp fire antics, sloggy hiking scowles, drenched friends while you are in the dry comfort of your vehicle,
these are the true trip shots. landscape shots are great, but people shots tell a story without words

sounds like you had a great time

Cirrus2000
03-27-2007, 08:49 PM
Very, very nice! :2thumbs:

Thanks, Kris - excellent photos, and I really enjoyed the write-up.

But Marc is also right - people are good in photos. The tell a story, plus they provide perspective on the setting.

This area is getting more & more likely for my April trip...

goofball
03-27-2007, 08:53 PM
niiiiiice.

we spent 6 days backpacking the maze a few years ago. particularly liked ernies country. ruins and a nice corkscrewy slot. not to mention a nice spring. :2thumbs:

did you have a hard time gaining the top of petes mesa ? that was a pretty tough scramble when i went up it, wondering if you took an easier route.

marc olivares
03-27-2007, 08:55 PM
This area is getting more & more likely for my April trip...

when you going down? looks like i'll be down there the last week of april

kris
03-27-2007, 08:59 PM
nice job :2thumbs:

at the risk of sounding like a jerk, dont be afraid to post up more shots of you and your friends. most of the fun, of doing these trips, is w/ the company that we keep. camp fire antics, sloggy hiking scowles, drenched friends while you are in the dry comfort of your vehicle,
these are the true trip shots. landscape shots are great, but people shots tell a story without words

sounds like you had a great time


Thanks for the comments.

I will go through and pull out a few more, and get them resized. I kind of took a mix of straight landscape/mix.

We accessed Petes Mesa from Shot Canyon, which was a very interesting climb. I will dig up some pictures of the route out.

Cirrus2000
03-27-2007, 09:17 PM
This area is getting more & more likely for my April trip...

when you going down? looks like i'll be down there the last week of april

Hmmm... Either: late the 22nd to early on the 26th, or May 1st to the 4th or 5th. It depends - my brother might fly in & meet me for some Moab cycling, or a friend for some hiking. (On the 26-30 April, I'll be introducing the Moab area to my 10 year old son.) I'll post more details when it firms up a little in a week or so. Got specific plans/partners? I'll be there with Jeep (stock TJ), mountain bike, and maybe harness/webbing/rope/etc - gotta come prepared!. </hijack>

Kris, I think we'd all love to see more photos, with or without people! I'd like to see the route up to the mesa, too...

Sombeech
03-27-2007, 10:06 PM
very cool shots.

We'd like to see you and your crew as well. :cool2:

brettyb
03-28-2007, 05:47 AM
Stunning photos, great trip report. Thanks for sharing.

Scott P
03-28-2007, 06:32 AM
Great photos.

Nice to see Spanish Bottom is so green right now!

sparker1
03-28-2007, 07:30 AM
Great photos of an a-maze-ing place. Good job.

gonzo
03-28-2007, 10:32 AM
That's it. I'm going. Now I just have to convince my wife to let me go.

Scott Card
03-28-2007, 11:01 AM
Kris, Very nice job. Great shots and color. I love the desert after a good rain. It really brings out the colors.

And Kris247..... bribery, man bribery. Take a day off and let her have her time, clean the house, take the kids out then negotiate. :2thumbs:

Scott P
03-28-2007, 02:37 PM
Now I just have to convince my wife to let me go.

You have to convince your wife in order to go? Dang, my wife tells me to go. Sometimes she even ask me to go and take one of the kids with me. :wink:

TreeHugger
03-28-2007, 05:13 PM
Wow. I've never seen pictures of that area before and have spent nearly no time in Canyonlands other than mountain biking White Rim... it's gorgeous!! Your pictures are soooo great! Am I understanding that you had to rappel in to start your backpacking trip?

Scott Card
03-28-2007, 05:38 PM
Now I just have to convince my wife to let me go.

You have to convince your wife in order to go? Dang, my wife tells me to go. Sometimes she even ask me to go and take one of the kids with me. :wink:

HUH??? Ok, whats the dealio here... You at home too much? How hot is the mail man? You got a pool boy? Do you tell her how to cook? What is it man? Do you walk around the house naked? Are you messing the place up? I have to know, I've never heard of this behavior before..... :lol8:

kris
03-28-2007, 06:40 PM
Wow. I've never seen pictures of that area before and have spent nearly no time in Canyonlands other than mountain biking White Rim... it's gorgeous!! Your pictures are soooo great! Am I understanding that you had to rappel in to start your backpacking trip?

No. You can scramble all the way in. We just rappelled for the fun of it the first night.

My wife is pretty understanding, and doesn't mind if I go.

goofball
03-28-2007, 07:05 PM
We accessed Petes Mesa from Shot Canyon, which was a very interesting climb. I will dig up some pictures of the route out.

hmmmmm... are you sure ? shot canyoyn is a couple miles from petes mesa, w/ jasper canyon in between them. do you mean you came from teh trail junction at chimney rock, following jaspers west rim ? when we were there in 00 i believe there was no camping up there either. glad that has changed. sure got some killer views on top ! i didn't have time to wander too much, just teh southeastern side overlookign jasper.

kris
03-28-2007, 07:30 PM
We accessed Petes Mesa from Shot Canyon, which was a very interesting climb. I will dig up some pictures of the route out.

hmmmmm... are you sure ? shot canyoyn is a couple miles from petes mesa, w/ jasper canyon in between them. do you mean you came from teh trail junction at chimney rock, following jaspers west rim ? when we were there in 00 i believe there was no camping up there either. glad that has changed. sure got some killer views on top ! i didn't have time to wander too much, just teh southeastern side overlookign jasper.


You are right, sorry about the mix up. looking at the map it is an unnamed mesa.

Back country camping is open anywhere, except Pete's Mesa, like you said. Maybe that's why it stuck in my mind. I guess I better be careful about that mixup. :eek2: Everywhere else is fine, as long as it is 300 feet from archive sites, vehicle camping areas, and parking areas. Hiking off trails is allowed everywhere, except around the dollhouse area. That is due to the river runners trampling all over the place. Of course they ask that you tread lightly on the crypto soil.

goofball
03-28-2007, 09:00 PM
You are right, sorry about the mix up. looking at the map it is an unnamed mesa. Back country camping is open anywhere, except Pete's Mesa.

looks pretty all teh same ! i believe they said petes was a no-no because of desert bighorns (?). but can't remember.


Everywhere else is fine, as long as it is 300 feet from archive sites, vehicle camping areas, and parking areas. Hiking off trails is allowed everywhere, except around the dollhouse area. That is due to the river runners trampling all over the place. Of course they ask that you tread lightly on the crypto soil.

funny story on those regs...

we had planned to go to standing rock camp from hite, but teapot canyon kicked our ford escapes ass. sooooooo... after a few hours of driving in that way we turned around, went into hans flat and and hiked down north trail canyon instead. we were up all night driving. we didn't want to break the rules by not going to our designated site that the permit stated. 1/2 way to the maze overlook we met some rangers who said they got the note we left at hans flat stating we weren't able to reach standing rocks, so we are parked at north point adn will go in that way. hope that is ok ! don't wanna break " da' rules". they got quite a chuckle and thought we were nuts because we could have parked teh vehgicle ANYwhere along that road in from hite so long as there was legitimate space to do so. so instead of stoppign a coupel miles, or maybe 3-4, from our main target of ernies country, we spent all night driving around to hike 13 miles to teh maze overlook and down into the s fork horse complex. THEN out via the plug and down to ernies th near the bottom of the golden stairs. *whew* i went up petes as a side trip on day 2 as we moved camp. we hiked many miles that trip ! took every bit of 6 days to cover all the ground we wanted to see. and it was worht it !

canyonlands has the most amazing color to the landscape, as your pics captured well.

denaliguide
03-29-2007, 02:20 AM
kris,

glad you had a great trip. the photos were superb. your welcome for the info. that camp at french spring fork is beautiful. your truck looks good with some canyonlands mud on it.

i can't wait to go back there again. i should be in the area the last week of april of first week of may, if anyone would like to meet up. i have a 4runner and will have tons of gear. ropes, rack, water etc.... i would love to spend some time exploring the fins and ernies country.

Cirrus2000
03-29-2007, 04:39 AM
i can't wait to go back there again. i should be in the area the last week of april of first week of may, if anyone would like to meet up. i have a 4runner and will have tons of gear. ropes, rack, water etc.... i would love to spend some time exploring the fins and ernies country.
That looks like three of us, so far, in there around the same time... It seems my brother and my friend won't be able to make it, so it looks like either April 22rd (late) to 26th (early) or May 1st to 4th is good for me in the area. Maybe I'll start a new thread, stop hijacking this one...

Scott P
03-29-2007, 07:13 AM
How hot is the mail man?

We only have a mail woman and don't you dare say what I think you might say. :nono:


You got a pool boy?

No one in Craig Colorado has a pool.


Do you tell her how to cook? What is it man? Do you walk around the house naked? Are you messing the place up? I have to know, I've never heard of this behavior before.....

Nah, none of that. She just likes some quiet time to read and relax every once in a while.
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Back country camping is open anywhere, except Pete's Mesa, like you said.

Camping is (or was?) banned at the seeps in the Ernies Country as well.

Anyway, once again Kris, nice trip report. The Maze is a great area. :2thumbs:

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________

If anyone is interested in seeing the "Maze with out seeing the Maze" and without any NPS regulations, Fiddler Cove Canyon looks exactly like the Maze. I would recommend it as well.

northernoutpost
03-29-2007, 07:37 AM
I'll echo-great trip report and great photos. I haven't really thought much about the maze lately, but the last few reports are definitely selling the area quite well. May have to make a side trip next time I'm down .(Cirrus, you can be the advance party) :cool2:

kris
03-29-2007, 08:12 PM
__________________________________________________ __________________


Back country camping is open anywhere, except Pete's Mesa, like you said.

Camping is (or was?) banned at the seeps in the Ernies Country as well.

Anyway, once again Kris, nice trip report. The Maze is a great area. :2thumbs:

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________

If anyone is interested in seeing the "Maze with out seeing the Maze" and without any NPS regulations, Fiddler Cove Canyon looks exactly like the Maze. I would recommend it as well.

Where is that located?

The parkie at Hans Flat only said the Mesa was closed to camping. I would like to go back, and hit up Ernies country next time. I think the nice part of the maze, is how remote it is. The views are alright too. :2thumbs:

tanya
03-29-2007, 08:16 PM
Great Stuff! You even have a great foot shot! So what were you doing posted a picture of women's socks at flicker. :haha: