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mroy
03-21-2007, 11:04 PM
I figured if I get some trip beta from the forums, I should post my TR's here as well. I'm just posting the best pics here, the rest and some vids are here: http://www.mikepearce.us/TheMaze/default.asp

I'd never been to The Maze area of Canyonlands, in fact everything between Hwy 24 and the Green River in that area was totally uncharted to me. The weather looked awesome, but it hadn't been warm enough to melt & dry out the Flint Trail, or the road out to Hite for my 2WD truck to make it down and out (there's no way my truck would ever get up the Flint Trail). So instead of starting at the top of the Golden Stairs I started out 4 miles further away at the top of the Flint Trail bringing the total mileage to around 37.5 miles in 2.5 days. I didn't think it was that much until I got home and plotted the whole thing out on Google Earth - the gps is still in the shop :(

The Flint Trail was uneventful. Towards the Maze Overlook trail I was passed by two trucks. Those were the last people I'd see till my way back. The Golden Stairs weren't that great to go through. It's a rough, primitive, cairned route that heads really far in one direction, drops a little, then heads just as far back in the other, and drops to the area below where the Doll House Road is. From there to the entrance to the top of South Fork Canyon, there's not much to say other than, the sun was high, there were no clouds in the sky, it was in the 80's and the sun wouldn't move, it was mid-day for forever and then some.

The South Fork route is just a nice string of cairns down to the canyon floor. The path is pretty straight forward, and easy. There are a few places where the less agile would want to lower their packs, and some definite exposure, and some steep slopes at the end, but I enjoyed it. There was plenty of water in a couple pools at the bottom fed by a small trickling spring where I filled up.

South Fork was great to get into after the non-stop sun exposure. I was following one set of footprints in the moist sand down canyon for a while, but there was the same set headed in the opposite direction as well. There were lots of deer tracks and one small mammal probably the size of a small dog.

Water was everywhere down there from what looked like spring after spring. The source had a rust colored look to the water which dissipated further downstream. The sand was moist half the time making it easy to walk on which was great. Last July a 200 year storm (something like that) came through the area and caused flash floods in The Maze changing the terrain, and disturbing the water sources. The NPS said they didn't know for sure what was going on since they hadn't gone down yet to check everything out this year. All I know is most of the water sources aren't quite right. They have a soft water taste to it, and the rust discoloration at the spring sources made me feel pretty uneasy about even drinking it, but when in the desert, it's life or death, or eventual death if the water is contaminated with enough bad stuff.

I headed down canyon making it more than half way before I was too hungry to go on and set up camp in a high spot. I wasn't keeping track of where I was, but I saw Elaterite Butte at a specific angle through a side canyon so I thought I was close to the Maze Overlook Trail. As warm as it was during the day it got pretty cold at night, hovering around freezing.

The next morning I found ice just below my camp in the streambed, and the air was much, much colder coming out of a side canyon. It took a couple hours of meandering but I made it to where the Maze Overlook Trail joins up in South Canyon. When I finally made it to the heart of the Maze I was amazed at just how wide of an area was open there, and how many canyons just join up in that area. There was supposed to be a spring a little further up from the canyon that leads up to the Harvest Scene, and that threw me way off because the spring had moved quite a ways North of where it should've been. It had that same rust colored tint at the source so I looked for where it should've been, and kept heading up and not finding anything. I was almost out of water by then, so I headed back to the nasty water to fill up and have some lunch.

After several hours of lingering in the shade of a ledge near the water I went up to check out the Harvest Scene. That canyon was pretty wide, and didn't offer any shade. I didn't stick around too long to check out the petroglyphs cause it was really hot.

The next major point of interest is the exit from The Plug, it's a foolhardy route with steep scrambles up slickrock chutes and along huge cliffs. It was a lot of fun to go up, but I wouldn't want to go down. The ranger I talked to after I made it back to the Ranger Station said they had re-cairned that route to be a safer route, but they think someone went back and put the old route back up after what I described. It's totally possible that the new route is still up, but I didn't hit it.

When I got back to the Doll House Road the sun was low in the sky, and the air was much cooler making for some awesome colors, and the view was the best I've ever seen in Canyonlands.

I kept going through the dark until I was at the base of the Golden Stairs to make my next day significantly shorter.

Climbing the Golden Stairs was so much better in the morning. It heated up really quickly, but was nice when I made it to the top. From there it was a matter of walking the road. After 2.5 days of not seeing a soul a truck came up the road and we talked for a little bit ending my long period of solace.

Cirrus2000
03-22-2007, 03:22 AM
Very nice - super photos and interesting report. Thanks! I'm driving down to the Canyonlands/Moab area in approximately, oh, 31.5 days - but who's counting - so this is really whetting my appetite! I'll be spending a few days of short hikes and Jeepin' with my son, then a few days on my own with no definite plans, so this helps fill in the gaps...

Cheers!

asdf
03-22-2007, 04:27 AM
Now this is how I like to start my morning. Coffee, pics, and a great trip report.
How were the temps? Pretty cold at night?
Thanks for sharing! :2thumbs:

Alex
03-22-2007, 05:13 AM
Nice Video TR man :2thumbs: Reminded me of a survivor man series on tv, especially when you were trying to find water.

Mtnman1830
03-22-2007, 05:17 AM
Wow. I must put The Maze on my to do list. Thanks!

accadacca
03-22-2007, 08:41 AM
You da man! Nice werkin'! :five:

Udink
03-22-2007, 09:10 AM
Way nice TR Mike--I loved the pictures and videos on your website. I'd like to do a trip like that, but doing it solo would be a bit unnerving for me. It looks like you covered a lot of ground and had a good time, though. :smile:

Brewhaha
03-22-2007, 09:27 AM
Great TR - it's one of the first for The Maze here on UUtah (at least that I can remember).

Question: So how did you end up handling the water situation? What kind of filtration did you use?

Sombeech
03-22-2007, 09:56 AM
Nice pics. You're site's looking good too.

mroy
03-22-2007, 10:19 AM
Thanks for the comments guys.

To answer some questions - it got really cold at night, close to freezing. For the water I just had Aquamira, I didn't bring my filter. Since the water was clearer once it flowed about 20-30 feet from the source I filled up downstream. The NPS should have tested it by now, and I think they would've called me if it was of concern. When it was heated up to put in my dehydrated food, it bubbled up when I poured it in, like the water had something in it that was enough of a base to react with the acidity of the food. From my body's reactions to it, I'd just say it was very minerally and leave it at that :P I carried 9 liters in, filled up 3 liters in South Canyon, and filled up 9 liters for the way out before the Harvest Scene, which is why I planned on being on the open road at night, so I'd use less water, and it worked out perfectly, barely.

I know what you're talking about with the Survivorman stuff, but I realized the other day that taking vids to post would really give my friends & family who would never do stuff like this a better idea of how things are out there. It's probably only going to make them wonder even more why I do that stuff.

I really fell in love with The Maze, it's an incredible area, and it's just hard enough to get to that it makes it so much more special when you're there. I'll probably try to hit it again next winter. There are tons of trails through that area, and plenty of places to explore. I wish I had time to head up some of the side canyons. At the end of South Canyon where it meets the Green River is an 80 ft drop, it would be cool to take a static line to rappel down that and camp at the river then jumar back out.

I always carry a CB radio when I go solo, especially in a place as remote as that. I thought I'd see at least a couple people in the canyons, but I was wrong.

Brewhaha
03-22-2007, 10:28 AM
How did the CB radio work? Did you try it out? Do you have a link to the one you use or one like it that I could check into? I take a small group of college students out once in a while and would like to have something and I can't afford a sat-phone.

mroy
03-22-2007, 11:14 AM
I haven't needed to send/receive anything on the CB, so I can't say how well that works, and it entirely depends on the terrain you're in. I have used the CB to get weather in the Grand Canyon, and I checked that in The Maze as well, and couldn't get any weather where I was at inside the canyons. In the Grand Canyon I can get it most of the time no problem. I'll scan the channels occasionally on trips to see if I can pick up anything, and every now and then you can. It's just there as a backup, but nothing I'd absolutely rely on. It can be superfluous to take, but it's better than nothing. Best case scenario a broadcast on an emergency channel will be monitored by police or someone with a cell phone who can get in touch with someone. The NPS says they have their own radios and broadcast spectrum and they don't monitor CB so you couldn't even contact them directly. Even better would be if you had someone nearby monitoring a specific channel. You might even have better luck with FRS/GMRS radios since they're used more, but for shorter distances.

We used them a lot when I worked as the mountain bike director at a scout high adventure base, and over distances of 10 miles communication was pretty good, just depends on terrain, line of sight communication is much better than when something is in the way, but CB signals bounce off stuff, even the atmosphere, so in an emergency you still have a chance of being heard far away.

http://www.flyingjestore.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=showitem&PRODUCT_CODE=EL81&ITEM_NUMBER=44&SKU=100

Sat phones are just as iffy in the canyon terrain I usually get into. I haven't used one, but word on the street is you have a 50/50 chance of picking up a satellite, but have only a minute or two to talk before the call is dropped. I looked into them before, and just like cell phones you need to have a plan. You can get one by the year for 180 minutes for around $200, but that's a lot for something you might never use. You can also rent them for about $30/week.

Cirrus2000
03-22-2007, 12:30 PM
Thanks for expanding on those questions, Mike. Very interesting. That's a lot of water to have to carry - 9 liters = 20 pounds, so yikes. Add in a radio, and you were really lugging.

Something I've thought of using in a situation like that is a VHF air band transceiver. Even in quite desolate areas, there are often high flying aircraft overhead, and anything with more than one radio is generally monitoring the emergency frequency, 121.5 MHz. I wonder whether a small handheld would do well in reaching them from a canyon...

I, too, enjoyed the video. I planned to take lots in Buckskin/Paria, and would have if I'd taken batteries and memory cards... :frustrated: I think it's a great way to share the experience with others.

Seriously considering The Maze area for next month...

mroy
03-22-2007, 12:53 PM
I didn't bring any memory cards on my last trip to the grand canyon so I feel your pain about Paria. There was a great storm system moving through that would've made incredible photos, so I was kicking myself for that. I thought the card was in the camera because I always put it back after unloading pics - except for that one time.

Hauling that much water wasn't too bad because I keep my pack weight down as much as I can, so it put it around 40 lbs I think w/ the water. I'm not ultralight, but I'm close. If you have a 4WD you can make it to the Maze Overlook or the Standing Rocks/Dollhouse area and get right into the canyons and not need to worry about water as much since there's plenty down there. It's around 13 miles of canyon that I went through + 3 miles on the road to connect them and there's water close to each of the canyon entrance points. I could've taken less and trekked a mile down a canyon I was unfamiliar with close to the Golden Stairs to refill at a reliable spring w/ a trough there, but I thought I'd rather take more than go further, and I definitely wasn't going exploring at night.

The roads I hiked down are in good shape, just steep, not technical. I've heard the Teapot area heading to the Dollhouse is very rough, so easiest way to get there would be the Maze Overlook, unless you like long walks or can hitch a ride with passerbys.

The VHF air band transmitter sounds like an interesting thought. There were a few commercial aircraft, but not many, and no small planes at all. I wonder if there are airspace restrictions there like in the GC?

Cirrus2000
03-22-2007, 03:47 PM
Hauling that much water wasn't too bad because I keep my pack weight down as much as I can, so it put it around 40 lbs I think w/ the water. I'm not ultralight, but I'm close. If you have a 4WD you can make it to the Maze Overlook or the Standing Rocks/Dollhouse area and get right into the canyons and not need to worry about water as much since there's plenty down there.

If I may ask, what do you use for shelter? How minimal do you go? I just like getting ideas from others...

I'll be in a stock TJ, so I might be able to get in fairly well.


The VHF air band transmitter sounds like an interesting thought. There were a few commercial aircraft, but not many, and no small planes at all. I wonder if there are airspace restrictions there like in the GC?

No, nothing listed on the most recent VFR (visual flight rules) chart that I have (mid 2004), there just aren't a lot of people that want to fly there, I guess. The good thing about VHF is that it has good range and clarity - the bad thing is, it's pretty much line of sight. In a really narrow canyon, the flights might have to be pretty much directly above... :ne_nau:

mroy
03-22-2007, 04:13 PM
I just attached the spreadsheet I use for my checklist, it has all the weights of everything I usually take and adds them up in different categories.

I don't have a minimalist mindset, I like screened tents, and long comfy pads (Big Agnes rules!) I just choose lighter stuff. The Vapor Trail pack is going to be my next purchase which will knock 1.5 lbs off my backpack weight.

denaliguide
03-22-2007, 05:00 PM
nice Tr and love the photos. glad you had a good time. can't wait to get there in april.

heres a couple photos of the trough spring that mroy mentions 1 mile from the base of the golden stairs (the water is good). it's on the southern edge of the fins. and also a couple photos of the road around teapot rock. it is rough but i made it with my 4runner with no real difficulty.

an aircraft radio is not a bad option. theres always jets flying up high even if you can't see them. its right under the denver to L.A. flight route. use 121.5 and you should hit them no problem. they will all be monitoring the emergency freq. there are no real flight restrictions in canyonlands. F.A.A. requests that aircraft say at least 2000 feet above ground level over wilderness and nat. parks etc... except in the grand canyon where the routes are more regulated. this is only a request and not a requirement. i have carried a aircraft handheld for years without needing it yet, but you never know.

9 liters of water is a load but it will get you through a dry camp if needed. love my 6 liter dromedary bags.