View Full Version : Trip Report Happy Canyon
rockgremlin
03-11-2007, 04:31 PM
I give you: the narrows of Happy Canyon. This canyon is absolutely gorgeous, and is a photographer's dream. But, it's charms aren't relinquished easily. BE WARNED: this canyon is in an extremely rugged and remote location. We left Monticello at 7:30 am, and arrived in Happy Canyon at around 3:30 pm. Making a day hike out of Happy Canyon requires a monumental effort. Consult the map below:
1 - We arrive at a fork in the road after 90 minutes of driving on dirt roads from Hwy 24.
2 - The going is so slow in a 4wd truck, that we decide to ditch the truck, and bust out the ATV for the remainder of the road. A 4wd vehicle will not make it far beyond here. The road is impassible in many spots to regular vehicular travel.
3 - We encounter two very large boulders that block the road. We are persistent, and roll some large rocks out of the way, and continue cautiously on a very rugged ATV track.
4 - Here we ditch the ATV (after more than 90 minutes since ditching the truck). We descend on foot down some steep slopes to the Dirty Devil river. Happy Canyon is just around the corner.
5 - We reach the mouth of Happy Canyon after 8 solid hours of traveling on paved and dirt roads, in a truck, on an ATV, and on foot. We had to wade the Dirty Devil river three times.
6 - This is where we turned around in Happy Canyon.
I would say if you plan on doing happy Canyon, bring an ATV (or at least a mountain bike), because if you plan to hike to Happy Canyon on foot, it will take you all day. This is probably the most remote slot canyon I have ever hiked to.
And now to the pictures....
marc olivares
03-11-2007, 06:12 PM
:slobber:
goofball
03-11-2007, 06:41 PM
happy canyon... good times.
that road down ps adn alogn the black ledges must be in bad shape. i did this a few years ago during summer. left bluff when we got up and from 95 it took us about 3+ hours to make the mouth of happy, drive (4runner) and hike combined. we were able to drive til the road on the black ledges cul de saced in a big flat. hiked all the way up and out for a bit, then had to leave to meet people in teh swell by nightfall. very pretty canyon. drove a herd of about 20 desert bighorns up form the dd to a break in the walls near the 1st bend i think where they headed out. the petrified wood along the black ledges is amazing. some really big chunks. saw one spot where you could make out most of the tree, as if it had just fallen and turned to rock that minute.
i am curious about the next canyon south too. has a slot at its head and looks interesting...
rockgremlin
03-11-2007, 07:14 PM
i am curious about the next canyon south too. has a slot at its head and looks interesting...
Yes, I am too. I had my eye on it on the approach to Happy. It's got to have a slot very similar to happy - it's in the same geologic formation, and drains a fairly large area.
goofball
03-11-2007, 07:56 PM
i am curious about the next canyon south too. has a slot at its head and looks interesting...
Yes, I am too. I had my eye on it on the approach to Happy. It's got to have a slot very similar to happy - it's in the same geologic formation, and drains a fairly large area.
i am totally infatuated w/ the whole dd region. its isolation, its ruggedness, its bredth and depth... just incredible.
it is just so difficult to access.
there is a track heading s from burr point that looks as if it continues to near poison spring canyons rim. don't know how good a track it is or how far ti could be traveled, but aerials show it. also seems like there might be a break in the cliffs between happy and that littel brother south. possible access point. on the "to do (or die trying)" list...
and nice pics. makes me home sick.
Cirrus2000
03-11-2007, 08:45 PM
Wow, fantastic photos. Looks like a great trip. How long did you spend in the canyon itself? Lots of invested time...
rockgremlin
03-12-2007, 06:18 AM
Wow, fantastic photos. Looks like a great trip. How long did you spend in the canyon itself? Lots of invested time...
We spent maybe 90 - 120 minutes in the slot. You're right though, lots of invested time. I would recommend that if you wanna do Happy Canyon, make a backpacking trip out of it, and explore some of the other slots in the area. :2thumbs:
Scott P
03-12-2007, 07:33 AM
Cool photos! :2thumbs:
My four year old loves Happy Canyon and the name of it. :2thumbs:
Yes, I am too. I had my eye on it on the approach to Happy. It's got to have a slot very similar to happy - it's in the same geologic formation, and drains a fairly large area.
Sort of similar, but not really. It's called Two Step Canyon. It is narrower, has more climbing, and is shorter.
it is just so difficult to access.
Have to disagree with that. Here's some encouragement. It's actually very easy to get to and you can approach from at least five routes, some of which can be approached by any car. All but two of the routes are easy hikes that I would take my two and four year old on, and have taken the later. Almost anyone (that is well prepared and can read a map) can go there, so just get out and do it. :2thumbs:
I would recommend that if you wanna do Happy Canyon, make a backpacking trip out of it, and explore some of the other slots in the area.
I would agree. There is much to do in the immediate area and it's a great place to visit in winter. I also like walking up to the Pinnacle in Happy. It's pretty neat. :2thumbs: Don't forget Hatch and Fiddler Cove Canyon are right there as well.
http://uutah.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5463
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Anyway, that track must have been recently washed out (October). It was rough, but we were able to drive to the boulder blockage in 1999 in a Kia Sportage and in 2006 with a Pathfinder. Since we were just down Poison Springs, I had wondered about the condition of the track after last Fall's storms. The Poison Springs to Sunset Pass route definately had some washouts, but we were able to get a Tacoma through.
rockgremlin
03-12-2007, 07:48 AM
Anyway, that track must have been recently washed out (October). It was rough, but we were able to drive to the boulder blockage in 1999 in a Kia Sportage and in 2006 with a Pathfinder. Since we were just down Poison Springs, I had wondered about the condition of the track after last Fall's storms. The Poison Springs to Sunset Pass route definately had some washouts, but we were able to get a Toacoma through.
The road to the boulders is passable if you have a couple of strong men who are willing to roll boulders out of the way -- and a lot of time. We were crawling through there so slowly with a 4x4 truck that we decided to go with the ATV since it is much more maneuverable, and faster. On the ATV, we passed several large rocks that would definitely stop any vehicle, but looked like they could be moved with two hefty guys. Since my friend and I aren't hefty, we left them for someone else. :haha:
stefan
03-12-2007, 08:17 AM
nice shots rockG, glad you got out to it.
when i was in happy canyon, i met a group from arizona who were exploring that area. anyway, they attempted the first time with rugged vehicles (just to check it out) and found that many sections were washed out and weren't able to make it very far. it was late in the day and the ended up getting off the road and camping. i think they had seen that the road was being graded on their attempt, so they ended up waiting and after that the road was much easier. if i remember correctly, they drove branches of the road, but ended up starting from the branch that goes to the dirty devil, and started a 7 day hike from there. they got to happy canyon the afternoon before i did, and managed to watch it flashflood. they hiked up it and it started raining. exited the upper part of the narrows and sat on the rim and watched. nice bunch of folks, they were the only folks i saw for 5 days.
ya, two step canyon can be climbed up.
you didn't happen to get any photos of the road with all these rocks did ya?
rockgremlin
03-12-2007, 08:31 AM
you didn't happen to get any photos of the road with all these rocks did ya?
No. I wish I would've though.
utidcapaco
03-12-2007, 08:55 AM
Thanks rockgremlin. Just curious, how did you determine the flow of the Dirty Devil?
rockgremlin
03-12-2007, 09:06 AM
Thanks rockgremlin. Just curious, how did you determine the flow of the Dirty Devil?
This website:
http://waterdata.usgs.gov/ut/nwis/rt
utidcapaco
03-12-2007, 09:39 AM
Duh, I should have known that. Thanks! :doh:
Iceaxe
03-12-2007, 09:58 AM
Congrads.... :2thumbs:
I know Happy Canyon has been on your tick list for a long time. Nice to see you finally get it.
:popcorn:
RedRoxx
04-04-2007, 04:48 AM
Probably 7-8 years ago drove my Jeep on the mine track on the Black Jump to the end of the 4wd area overlooking the Dirty Devil. Car camped and did a half day hike to the spectacular narrows the next day.
Excellent photography. Would like to return, that road would make a nice backpacking trip out of it, with access to a lot of beautiful territory.
Loved the petrified wood---
canyonquest
04-04-2007, 08:15 AM
3 - We encounter two very large boulders that block the road. We are persistent, and roll some large rocks out of the way, and continue cautiously on a very rugged ATV track.
4 - Here we ditch the ATV (after more than 90 minutes since ditching the truck). We descend on foot down some steep slopes to the Dirty Devil river. Happy Canyon is just around the corner.
Visited last Saturday. Came back to find this thread. We were able to bounce and squeeze the truck all the way to 3, but I was simply amazed to see ATV tracks beyond that. We ran into a couple of prospectors from Hanksville. They were out staking mining claims over the entire area. They said the price of uranium has gone from $5 to $95 lb. over the last couple of years. My guess is that road is likely to see some major improvements in the near future.
http://canyonquest.com/happy
rockgremlin
04-04-2007, 08:41 AM
Visited last Saturday. Came back to find this thread. We were able to bounce and squeeze the truck all the way to 3, but I was simply amazed to see ATV tracks beyond that. We ran into a couple of prospectors from Hanksville. They were out staking mining claims over the entire area. They said the price of uranium has gone from $5 to $95 lb. over the last couple of years. My guess is that road is likely to see some major improvements in the near future.
Yup, those ATV tracks were ours. My friend is a former motocross racer, so what most would consider insurmountable boulders, he considers a speed bump. We noticed the mining claims when we were out there too. With Uranium up to $95 and climbing, I wouldn't be surprised to see that road get improved in the near future.
Wasatch
04-04-2007, 08:51 AM
Nice pics, thanks. I've been in the area before on a backpack to Robber's Roost Canyon coming in on the Angel Trail (West side). Damn Dirty Devil was running around 400 csf, it was pretty sketchy at times, also don't forget about the quicksand in a few spots.
Canyon_Cal
11-29-2017, 10:03 PM
Bringing an old thread back to life here. I was just wondering if the road would be any easier on a dirt bike? I.E., good off-road motorcycle.
Canyon_Cal
12-11-2017, 09:26 PM
Bringing an old thread back to life here. I was just wondering if the road would be any easier on a dirt bike? I.E., good off-road motorcycle.
Just did this trip last weekend, so I can now answer my own question - Yes! the 15 miles on Poison Springs road and the 12020 mining road would likely be 3x faster than in my full-size 4WD truck, but it would be harder to haul gear. A side-by-side ATV might be best. Here's a few of my observations:
1. Happy Canyon is well worth the effort to get there, but it takes quite an effort to do it in a day. We left Hanksville at 6am and returned by 6pm. We were at the mouth of Happy Canyon at 11:45.
2. The road has been cleared of most boulders; there was only one I got out to move, and one more that was too heavy to move, so I drove over it. I made it all the way to the boulder slide with my full-size, stock-height 4WD pickup, but it would have been better to stop a little short at the mesa camp site - that last quarter mile was a bit hair-raising!
3. Mountain bikes are useful to save time getting from the boulder slide to the downhike to Dirty Devil, but its just as much work as hiking. We ditched the bikes about 2/3 of the way there - just too many land-slides and wash-outs to carry the bikes over. So if you have an expensive, light-weight, full suspension bike and are good at technical riding, give it a try. Otherwise, leave the bike home.
88544
4. There is a wicked, ice-covered pond across the Poison Springs road at the 8.3 mile point. After driving through many icy puddles up to that point, this looks like just another - but it will swallow your vehicle and hold it captive! We took three vehicles: my 4WD Duramax pickup with oversize tires, a totally stock 4-door Tahoe, and a RAV4 suv - we all got stuck in the pond, up to the axles! Good thing I took a tow strap! I pulled out the RAV4, the Tahoe pulled me out, and the Tahoe manged to somehow get himself out. Its covered with ice about 3.5 inches thick - you ride on it until you break through, then you are stuck real good.
5. Best place to wade the Dirty Devil is just downstream from the mouth of Happy, where the water is more swift and shallow. In places that the water moves slow, its deeper and has quick sand. Good to have treking poles for stability and to probe ahead for hidden holes or quick sand. Water is color of chocolate milk, you can't see through it.
6. Its worth it to hike to the top of the canyon - some nice up-climbs to practice your stemming there.
Canyon_Cal
12-11-2017, 09:52 PM
Here's a few more pics. A smaller HC 4WD then my Duramax Diesel would have an easier time getting through, but I managed to get it to the end of the road. In one place I had to back up, then pull forward. Past the rock slide, you could bike, but you have to carry the bike over about 50 wash-outs in the trail. Would be nice if someone would spend a week up there repairing the single track with some six-inch pvc pipe covered with rock and gravel!
88545
I pulled this RAV4 out backwards with a tow strap
88546
Past this point, an AWD mini-SUV is not enough, you need high-clearance
88547
As you can see, not much left of the 12020 mining road in many places
88548
Crossing the Dirty Devil
88549
A little stemming practice at top of canyon.
rockgremlin
12-12-2017, 06:25 AM
Nicely done!! :2thumbs:
Rob L
12-12-2017, 11:58 AM
It certainly is a stunning part of the world. I had the opportunity to fly over Happy Canyon and Dirty Devil in April 2017, including a "touch-and-go" at both Happy Canyon and Dirty Devil airstrips. Not the sort of places where you want to be if anything goes wrong, either on foot or 4WD or plane!
Picture including track of what I flew over. It's not exactly the same part as referred to in this thread, but close enough:
88550
Happy Canyon, short video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bNnNuG5DOQ
Dirty Devil, short video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAQ_41plzfM
There are tens (maybe hundreds) of old bush airstrips in this region, from the old uranium-prospecting days. Many are now not usable, like the one referenced at the top of the first picture on page one (http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthread.php?24698-Happy-Canyon) by rockgremlin (marked as "landing strip" upon Sams Mesa)
Happy Canyon airstrip is off the RHS of the same map picture.
When we had a Bogleyfest in November 2014, I think, driving to Poisoned Springs, parts of many of the roads (the straight bits) were used as runways to get the technical bods in with their Geiger counters. Strange lines in the sand in that area (particular straight lines or grids stand out, very evident on GE) are seismic exploration lines to see the underlying strata.
I should have been a geologist, I'd be richer.
Canyon_Cal
12-12-2017, 06:46 PM
Nicely done!! :2thumbs:
Thanks - couldn't have done it without your helpful information in the thread! :hail2thechief:
Canyon_Cal
12-12-2017, 06:49 PM
Rob L, Wow, that's my dream to fly a bush plane into sites like this! Guess I better finish my pilot's license. Looks like a Super Cub?
Rob L
12-13-2017, 02:05 AM
Rob L, Wow, that's my dream to fly a bush plane into sites like this! Guess I better finish my pilot's license. Looks like a Super Cub?
65hp Taylorcraft
mcweyen
02-15-2018, 11:53 AM
I see that a Subaru Forester got in to this campsite at some point. https://backcountrypost.com/threads/dirty-devil-river-slot-canyons.5722/
I lifted my Outback Sport three inches and it now has more clearance than a Forester (it now has around 9.5 inches at the lowest point) and added aggressive A/T tires. Thoughts on trying to get back in there with my lifted Subie?
Canyon_Cal
02-15-2018, 10:25 PM
I see that a Subaru Forester got in to this campsite at some point. https://backcountrypost.com/threads/dirty-devil-river-slot-canyons.5722/
I lifted my Outback Sport three inches and it now has more clearance than a Forester (it now has around 9.5 inches at the lowest point) and added aggressive A/T tires. Thoughts on trying to get back in there with my lifted Subie?
Yeah, you should make it fine. My wife jumped a 20 inch drop ledge with her Outback wagon!! Just a couple places where I cased out, but it didn't do any damage to my full size, stock height Chevy truck. Its all about careful driving. Take it slow and look for the best line when you can see you're coming up on the rough stuff. I would suggest stopping at the first triangular plateau - the road is considerably more sketchy past that point.
There is one place where you come up over a blind hill that you need to stay to the right (toward the drop-off!) to avoid casing out. That was the worst hit we took. This is on the way out - obviously stay to the left on return trip. Also refer to my earlier post on the sink hole - drive up over the solid rock to the right, don't try to ford it. Would be best if another party with a second vehicle and tow chain went along. We used my tow chain three times!
Scott P
02-16-2018, 10:53 AM
I see that a Subaru Forester got in to this campsite at some point. https://backcountrypost.com/threads/dirty-devil-river-slot-canyons.5722/
I lifted my Outback Sport three inches and it now has more clearance than a Forester (it now has around 9.5 inches at the lowest point) and added aggressive A/T tires. Thoughts on trying to get back in there with my lifted Subie?
I have driven that road several times, but I don't think I'd do it in my Subaru. A lifted Subaru might make it, but you would be taking a big risk. Personally, I don't see the reasoning of risking of it just to save an hour or two of easy walking. If your car is old and you don't care about it much though, maybe.
Canyon_Cal
02-16-2018, 05:54 PM
Scott P, when was the last time you drove that old mining road to Happy Canyon? I get the impression the road is in better shape that it used to be. Older trip reports speak of moving a number of boulders off the road to get through, but I only had to roll one out of my way. Another was kind of in my way, but I managed to squeeze past on the way out; for return trip, I just rolled over it! Don't attempt that with your Subie! This boulder was on the inside track (uphill side of road). But your Subie is narrower than my truck, so you'll be fine. If there is any ice on the mining road though, all bets are off, since the road slopes toward the drop in places. In any case, I recommend driving as far as comfortable, then hoofing it the rest of the way. It will be hard doing it all in one day though - that's the motivation for driving as far as possible.
Canyon_Cal
04-12-2018, 09:33 PM
Just to answer a recent question, I'm posting this pic as the "don't go any farther" point for a full size truck. When you see this big boulder, turn around where the white Tahoe is and go back to the last triangular plateau as the Pewter Chevy is doing. This boulder will be on your right as you go towards Happy Canyon, of course. That plateau would also be a good camping spot. Now if you have a small jeep, UTV, ATV or motor bike, you can go another 1/4 mile or so where the road turns into a single track at the land slide. But at that point, I dare say all forms of wheeled vehicles are at a stopping point, including mountain bikes.
89295
2065toyota
05-07-2018, 09:33 PM
Is this the same Happy Canyon that is in the Canyonlands Maze district?
rockgremlin
05-08-2018, 07:08 AM
Is this the same Happy Canyon that is in the Canyonlands Maze district?
I don't think so. This Happy Canyon is the one that is to the east of the Poison Springs area, and empties into the Dirty Devil river. It is accessed from State Hwy 95 south out of Hanksville.
stefan
05-08-2018, 03:00 PM
Is this the same Happy Canyon that is in the Canyonlands Maze district?
I don't think so. This Happy Canyon is the one that is to the east of the Poison Springs area, and empties into the Dirty Devil river. It is accessed from State Hwy 95 south out of Hanksville.
happy canyon is a long canyon that extends almost to the southwestern border of the maze. the head of the canyon is in the orange cliffs (GCNRA) and the narrows are at the confluence with the dirty devil.
2065toyota
05-08-2018, 03:09 PM
happy canyon is a long canyon that extends almost to the southwestern border of the maze. the head of the canyon is in the orange cliffs (GCNRA) and the narrows are at the confluence with the dirty devil.
We are doing a 5 day trip into the Maze over Memorial Weekend. Our first campsite is at Happy Canyon. From what I have read, we can explore up from the bottom and see the best parts of the canyon from there and go back to our vehicles. Our next campsites are back in towards Chimney Rock and Doll House areas. Just curious is all and trying to find as much info about the Maze as I can. It's a huge area and just trying to make the best use of our time that we have there.
Canyon_Cal
05-08-2018, 10:12 PM
There's another old mining road starting near the Hans Flat ranger station that could get you into the head (high end) of Happy Canyon, from the East. The road is no longer passable by any kind of motor vehicle though; it would be hiking only. There are actually trees growing in it. This would also be a very long route getting there. I've done a lot of research, and despite the claims of some, I can't find an "easy" way of getting to this canyon. Maybe floating down the Dirty Devil until you get to it? Or doing a bush plane landing on one of a couple old air strips. You might also land on the "beach" in the mouth of the Happy Canyon with an ultralight aircraft.
rockgremlin
05-09-2018, 06:49 AM
There's another old mining road starting near the Hans Flat ranger station that could get you into the head (high end) of Happy Canyon, from the East. The road is no longer passable by any kind of motor vehicle though; it would be hiking only. There are actually trees growing in it. This would also be a very long route getting there. I've done a lot of research, and despite the claims of some, I can't find an "easy" way of getting to this canyon. Maybe floating down the Dirty Devil until you get to it? Or doing a bush plane landing on one of a couple old air strips. You might also land on the "beach" in the mouth of the Happy Canyon with an ultralight aircraft.
This is so true. It really is the most remote slot canyon I've ever visited. And it makes me happy that it is like this. The high price of admission keeps the relentless masses at bay.
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