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View Full Version : Simul-rap/retrievable anchor



Iceaxe
03-04-2007, 04:14 PM
Technical Geek stuff - See the picture below.

I saw this system on the ACA site and the more I think about it the more uses I come up with.

This system was first suggested as a method to reduce grooving in Morning Glory Arch. Throw blue right and red left. One person raps off each rope at the same time to counter-balance each other.

A short sling is shown for the picture and the length of sling would need to be longer for many rappels. Using this system would greatly reduce the amount of rope being pulled over Morning Glory Arch.

I know many of us have been doing Lomation and dealing with the crappy first rappel anchor and retrieval. Well I bet we could work out something sweet with this set up.....

Only problem I can see is you better warn everyone when you pull the ropes because that is a lot of hardware falling from the sky. I might suggest the use of rappel rings instead of rapids to reduce the risk.

Anyhoo..... nice to have anther tool in the ol' toolbox. And anything we can do to create less impact should be considered.

ratagonia
03-04-2007, 05:51 PM
Technical Geek stuff - See the picture below.

I saw this system on the ACA site and the more I think about it the more uses I come up with.

This system was first suggested as a method to reduce grooving in Morning Glory Arch. Throw blue right and red left. One person raps off each rope at the same time to counter-balance each other.

A short sling is shown for the picture and the length of sling would need to be longer for many rappels. Using this system would greatly reduce the amount of rope being pulled over Morning Glory Arch.

I know many of us have been doing Lomation and dealing with the crappy first rappel anchor and retrieval. Well I bet we could work out something sweet with this set up.....

Only problem I can see is you better warn everyone when you pull the ropes because that is a lot of hardware falling from the sky. I might suggest the use of rappel rings instead of rapids to reduce the risk.

Anyhoo..... nice to have anther tool in the ol' toolbox. And anything we can do to create less impact should be considered.

Yes, but... The sling itself - does it serve a purpose? Could just tie a rapide to the end of one rope, then double the other rope through that. Heck, you're getting it back, could just use a biner. Rap, pull the doubled rope, pop the other rope free.

Tom

Iceaxe
03-05-2007, 08:29 AM
Heck, you're getting it back, could just use a biner.

:2thumbs:

Good thinking..... I guess that's why your the Emperor. :nod:

I was just trying to think of the best way NOT to drag 200' of rope over the arch.

I guess we could make things really simple and just use a rappel ring. That would also eliminate most of the dangerous falling hardware. I'm seeing lots of options and practical uses.

:popcorn:

ratagonia
03-05-2007, 09:22 AM
Heck, you're getting it back, could just use a biner.

:2thumbs:

Good thinking..... I guess that's why your the Emperor. :nod:

I was just trying to think of the best way NOT to drag 200' of rope over the arch.

COULD use a sling, or a long sling, so you ding up the sling rather than the rope. But really, it is not dragging the rope over the rock or arch, it is dragging the rope WITH WEIGHT ON IT over the rock. Eliminate the weight, you eliminate most of the 'cutting effect'.

Tom

johnvi
03-30-2007, 07:56 PM
You can see a short clip of our rap off Morning Glory arch on http://youtube.com/watch?v=sv7QKywYb_k.

While the single ring system is easy, I think adding a length of webbing may improve rope retrieval (say the ring gets stuck) and decrease rope burn on the rock by diffusing the limited friction over a wider surface.

* Use a longer sling
* Set ring near one lip
* Throw red left and blue right
* Rappel
* Hold blue and pull one strand of red to retrieve
* Pull both strands of blue to retrieve rope and webbing.

John

- Sorry no cool sound track on the YouTube clip. Classic silent.

Iceaxe
03-31-2007, 04:26 PM
Thanks for the video clip and comments.... and welcome to the forum :2thumbs: