Middle Fork Leprechaun Advice

[price1869]

Shane recently admitted that his beta is not infallible. I'd like to make some suggestions to anyone going to do the middle fork of Leprechaun Canyon.

All of this info is for experienced canyoneers. Less experienced canyoneers or anyone doubting his or her abilities should not do the middle fork.

1. Don't do this canyon. It's too skinny. Even in the may-west areas, the canyon is extremely narrow 20 feet from the bottom. I wouldn't take anyone larger framed than me through this canyon. 43" chests are unacceptable.

2. On the approach, make sure you stay high on the ridge. You can avoid some risky exposed climbs by staying on top of the mesa from the geological marker on.

3. Take nothing with you. Especially, don't take anything you like. Less is more in this canyon. This is a risky suggestion, because if you're going to get stuck, take everything you need for survival. If you're not going to get stuck, take the following:
-40 feet of rope in a small bag (you can hand line of down climb almost anything in this canyon.)
-20 feet of webbing and a rap ring
-32 oz of water
-Camera
-Helmet
Optional gear includes GPS, and headlamp.

4. Take nothing with you, but cover yourself. Gloves, and at least 2 long sleeved shirts, and some tough jeans that you don't like. You are going to be sanded and sanded and sanded. If you want your jeans to look like you got them at Abercrombie, take them here. No Backpacks. A small canvas bag would be best. I'll design something.

5. A headlamp is nice, but the blvd isn't that dark. It's doable without a headlamp, and don't let your forgetfulness trick you into going up the ridge between the middle and left forks.

6. Don't go up the ridge between the middle and left forks. It's snot safe. It's really steep and exposed. The only reason I can think of to go that way is if you've got an injured party member and you're looking for an air evac. The darkness is a much better option.

That being said, these canyons were a lot of fun, and I enjoyed doing them by myself. Have fun and be safe.

[shaggy125]

Technically, everything in Middle Lep can be stemmed over, not saying it's fun, but it can be done. Check out Rob Heinemans story and pictures on Tom's site from 2005. Pretty entertaining story to read and I would guess you'll apreciate the story more now that you've done the canyon (that one is still on my to-do list, I've done just about everything else in North Wash (including the other forks of Leprechaun) but still not the middle).

http://canyoneeringusa.com/rave/0503lep/index.htm

Eric

[price1869]

Google earth has some good res for the north wash.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/130/357836553_134540f667.jpg

See the area between the Middle and Left forks, don't go there.

[Iceaxe]

5. A headlamp is nice, but the blvd isn't that dark. It's doable without a headlamp, and don't let your forgetfulness trick you into going up the ridge between the middle and left forks.

It depends on the time of day when you reach the Blvd. It can be pitch black depending on the location of the sun. I suggest every group have at least one headlamp.


1. Don't do this canyon. It's too skinny. Even in the may-west areas, the canyon is extremely narrow 20 feet from the bottom. I wouldn't take anyone larger framed than me through this canyon. 43" chests are unacceptable.

My chest is 46" and I made it through. The fork has been done by much bigger folks then me, but they have to work for it.


Don't go up the ridge between the middle and left forks. It's snot safe. It's really steep and exposed.

We found this to be a walk-up with sticky soled shoes. Maybe your difficulties were from footwear, route finding or the extreme cold causing poor traction?

Other then that I find you recommendations to be fairly accurate. The Middle Fork is a BIG step up from the right fork and that is the reason I recommend doing the right fork first.

:popcorn: YMMV

[ajroadtrips]

Don't go up the ridge between the middle and left forks. It's snot safe. It's really steep and exposed.

We found this to be a walk-up with sticky soled shoes. Maybe your difficulties were from footwear, route finding or the extreme cold causing poor traction?


I think route finding may be the issue here as well. I've done that climb out several times, usually in old running shoes without a problem. I remember a spot about 3/4 the way up I have dropped a rope for some partners, but with good route finding I have never found it very difficult.

The trick is definitely finding the right spot with texture to friction up easily. Much to the left or right of this one spot is a fair bit harder.

[Scott Card]

My buddy John, the dutch oven master, stemmed middle Lep a couple of weeks ago. He said it was hard work but he did it. Last year at Freezefest I did the right fork and was not pleased when we finished it so fast so me and a few others up-climbed Belfast and went past the junction with the left fork 'till we hit an up climb that required a partner assist. We stopped there and then reversed it. I don't know how tight the upper part is but I am 6'2" and I was about 210 at the time and slithered through. My brother is 6'4" and heaver and he did it. We had nothing with us since we left our packs at the crossroads.

Also, Tom Jones has a great pack called, you guessed it, the Leprachun pack designed for the North Wash and anything skinny. Great design. Check out canyoneeringusa.com. Nice TR and photos. :2thumbs: Great fun that area is. And the weather pattern there is unlike anywhere around it. Dry when everything else is getting dumped on. Weird.

[Iceaxe]

I have discover something interesting about skinny canyons..... the skinnier you are the lower you tend to go so the tighter the canyon.

Price, I believe Pandora's has some spots tighter then Middle-Lep. But we had been warned of these and went high whenever in doubt.

Anther interesting story..... when Alcatraz was first publicly documented the group reported back that 160 pounds was the absolute maximum. When we descended the canyon a couple weeks later I was at 200# and Giles was at about 225# (and built like a middle linebacker). We fixed ropes in the canyon so we could reverse because we were extremely worried after the earlier reports.

Just my observations on fat guys in skinny canyons.....

[Scott Card]

After looking more closely at the Google Earth photo, I bet we only did about 1/3 of middle fork from the Crossroads up past the junction. So we may not have been in the tightest parts. I do remember going to the floor one time on my side to pass a chock stone. That is a fun little canyon. I was going to do it at Freezefest this year but I got a late start. Sooooo, next time I guess.

[price1869]

I have discover something interesting about skinny canyons..... the skinnier you are the lower you tend to go so the tighter the canyon.

Price, I believe Pandora's has some spots tighter then Middle-Lep. But we had been warned of these and went high whenever in doubt.

Anther interesting story..... when Alcatraz was first publicly documented the group reported back that 160 pounds was the absolute maximum. When we descended the canyon a couple weeks later I was at 200# and Giles was at about 225# (and built like a middle linebacker). We fixed ropes in the canyon so we could reverse because we were extremely worried after the earlier reports.

Just my observations on fat guys in skinny canyons.....

You're probably right. The second time through i took almost nothing, and breezed through all the way to the middle/Left confluence in about an hour (including most of the entrance hike). I stayed almost on the bottom the whole time. Well, maybe I'm exagerating, so if you're bigger, plan on stemming a lot. Coincidentally, this is exactly what Ice's beta says you'll have to do.

[qedcook]

Resurrecting a old thread. How tough would you say Middle Leprechaun is in comparison to Alcatraz or some other similar canyon?

I mean, for big guys to go over. I'm 6'2", 215. about 40-42 chest.

[ratagonia]

http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/rave/leprechaun-canyon-feb-2005/

Leprechaun the hard way...

T

[Slot Machine]

Resurrecting a old thread. How tough would you say Middle Leprechaun is in comparison to Alcatraz or some other similar canyon?

I mean, for big guys to go over. I'm 6'2", 215. about 40-42 chest.

I think Alcatraz would be harder for a big guy. There are couple of tight places in Alcatraz you have to go through and can't go over. Many options to go high in Middle Lep.

[Bootboy]

I think Alcatraz would be harder for a big guy. There are couple of tight places in Alcatraz you have to go through and can't go over. Many options to go high in Middle Lep.

Edited for redundancy

[Scott P]

How tough would you say Middle Leprechaun is in comparison to Alcatraz or some other similar canyon?

I'm a "big guy" and would say that the toughest spots in Alcatraz are tougher than the toughest spots in Middle Lep, but the slot in Middle Lep is longer and doesn't relent.

[Iceaxe]

I think Alcatraz is easier for a bigger guy. You have to go high in both but the skinny sections in Alcatraz are shorter. I have also seen some pretty big canyoneers do Alcatraz, while I've seen some pretty big canyoneers bail out of Middle Leprechaun.

[qedcook]

Thanks for the advice. Alcatraz felt like a 3 out of 10 on difficulty, so I probably should be good.