Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

[Iceaxe]

Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Technical Crap

The Munter Hitch
This is my preferred method of rappelling without a rappel device. The Munter Hitch is reliable, assuming you set it up correctly. All you need is a locking carabiner. Make two bights in the rappel rope, like a clove hitch, and fold one over the other. Clip the loops through the carabiner which is clipped to your harness. This method puts a nasty twist in your rope, but you'll get over it. If you know how to tie a Diaper Sling (http://uutah.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4339) and rappel on a Munter Hitch you can do some amazing things with very little gear.

The Carbiner Brake
The Carbiner Brake can be done with either six carabiners or one large locking and four regular carabiners (the large locking connecting to your harness). When using two carabiners, ALWAYS reverse the gates. These first two will keep the rope from running against your harness, however they can be eliminated in an emergency if you only have four. Then clip two opposing ovals (or Ds, although ovals are best) to the two on your harness. Put a bight of the double ropes through these two. Clip the last two ovals across these two and under the bights so they rope runs over the backs of the pair.

The "Dulfer"
The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.

:phew:

[tanya]

I want to see a photo of you using these... :popcorn:

[marc olivares]

i wanna see the photos of your twisted ropes afterwards... :frustrated:

[ajroadtrips]

The "Dulfer"
The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.


My early climbing mentor once decided to rap down Dulfer style to save some time.. it was low angle enough, but a full 80'... His first words when he got down:

"How in the @#$% am I going to explain rope burns on my privates to my wife??"

:roflol:

Last time I ever saw him do the dufler, and enough of a warning to me to never attempt it....

YMMV, but for my money, I'm using a rap device, munter, or carabiner brake....

[Iceaxe]

"How in the @#$% am I going to explain rope burns on my privates to my wife??"

:lol8: :lol8: :lol8:

[Brian in SLC]

The "Dulfer"
The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.


Works on any slope, even free hanging.

And, its not called, "the dulfer".

It is, the "D

[tanya]

[quote=Brian in SLC]
Works on any slope, even free hanging.

And, its not called, "the dulfer".

It is, the "D

[Brian in SLC]

My very very very FIRST hike with Bo .... was Lady Mountain. Joe Braun was with us too. I must have got too comfy on the mountain top and left my harness behind. We get way down to the first rappel and I am without it. Bo ties me up in a Dulfersitz.... I would not have wanted to do a LONG rap in it! :lol8: It worked just fine for a short one however.

That somehow doesn't sound right (besides the obvious innuendo!).

I'd imagine he tied you a harness from webbing or rope? And lowered you? Maybe a bowline on a coil?

No way he let you rap with a D

[tanya]

Bo called it a Dulfersitz :popcorn: --- so I imagine it was. He is a stickler for exact terminology and stuff..... and yes he belayed me and Joe and everyone else on the trip. Afraid to do this hike.... since it was my first like that --- I snuck down to Paragon Climbing in Veyo and took a one day climbing course from Todd. (Have you seen the new edition of his book! Its great!) That was fun! Much funner after I finally fell and found out it was sure easier than hanging on by my toes and finger tips with everything in me ----- because I was afraid to fall. :eek2: :eek2: :eek2: Then I start talking with Todd :blahblah: and find out that Bo teaches there. I just can't sneak anywhere! :cool2:


That's the one... I still wonder how a man could do that one. Has to hurt between the legs! :mrgreen:
http://uutah.com/forum/files/dulfer.gif

[Brian in SLC]

Bo called it a Dulfersitz so I imagine it was. He is a stickler for exact terminology and stuff..... and yes he belayed me and Joe and everyone else on the trip.

Well, Bo knows Diddley... Makes sense, though, that he belayed you. Musta tied you straight into the rope? Then you rapped single?


Todd. (Have you seen the new edition of his book! Its great!)

Yeah, looks "ok". He seems to always be in a tiff with some of the boys up here in the City of Salt, so, leaves their stuff out of the book for spite, or some such. Too bad, 'cause, would have sold more with some of the new routes and areas in it. As it is, if you have the older guide, not a huge diff.


That's the one... I still wonder how a man could do that one. Has to hurt between the legs!

Nah, not if done correctly. Mostly set on the rope down yonder, and, its well placed off to the side. If you look at this pic, you'll see extra padding up by the shoulder. That's where you get the raspberries.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n110/jeplowe/File0246.jpg

From this cool thread posted by Jeff Lowe, on the 'taco:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=291953&msg=293017#msg293017

Might beat rappelling in an old Whillans harness, though...

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

[tanya]

I think we need some photos of you in the group and on the banner! Climbing ones in particular. :2thumbs:

You are on a climbing calendar right? And there is this one photo of you that is hard to forget. Its not a climbing one though. :mrgreen:

[Brian in SLC]

I think we need some photos of you in the group and on the banner! Climbing ones in particular. :2thumbs:

You are on a climbing calendar right? And there is this one photo of you that is hard to forget. Its not a climbing one though. :mrgreen:

Nah, you don't need any fodder...

Was a thong, actually...

http://www.cafepress.com/buy/mtncommunity/-/pv_design_prod/pg_1/p_storeid.4351906/pNo_4351906/id_424520/opt_/fpt__P___________Dc_PXi__FD___aF/c_0/

-Brian in SLC

[tanya]

http://images.cafepress.com/product/4351906_240x240_Front.jpg


But we can't see you on there!

[Iceaxe]

Here are a couple of other methods of rigging a rappel device from what you might have on hand.

Figures 1 & 2 are a different style of biner brake. I have actually seen this system with a 3rd biner included. I guess you could stack more biners to get whatever friction you like.

Figure 3 is rigged with a piton as Brian mentioned earlier.

Figure 4 is rigged with an ice screw.


:cool2:

[nosivad_bor]

From this cool thread posted by Jeff Lowe, on the 'taco:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=291953&msg=293017#msg293017

Might beat rappelling in an old Whillans harness, though...

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

wow . that is a great read, id like to know if that book he is talking about is done.

thanks for the link

rob

[tanya]

I just stumbled upon this photo someone sent me. Probably Bo? Anyway here is the painful Dulfer :eek2: Ouch! Still remember how much it hurt. Guy's must really hurt using this. :mrgreen:

41907

[p40whk]

I just stumbled upon this photo someone sent me. Probably Bo? Anyway here is the painful Dulfer :eek2: Ouch! Still remember how much it hurt. Guy's must really hurt using this. :mrgreen:

41907

Yep it hurts! We used it on many of the short drops in the Subway. Never heard of it called Dulfer, we just called it a body rappel. It's definitely a jewel shifter! :eek2:

[tanya]

dulfersitz is what I hear Bo refer to it as and Bo knows. :wink:


However this one is on backwards apparently and is why it hurt this trip! I wondered why it hurt so much more than when I did it on Lady Mountain. This is why I always stick by Bo. Someone else put that on me since Bo was above me.

[denaliguide]

yes in the photo it is backwards. you put the rope between your legs and come around your right thigh from behind and then across your chest and over your left shoulder, then across your back to the right side. your right hand will be the brake hand. now if you are left handed you do the opposite. this is what some call a historical system and is not used very often. it does work though and if you are going to use it you need to know how to do it properly. other wise if it is not correct and the rope just slips off your shoulder you are toast. as said before it is very uncomfortable and is best used on short low angle raps. having a high collar is advised.

[remoteman45]

Nice bicep/tricep Tanya

[tanya]

I try to hide my muscles. :mrgreen: Most of it with fat. :lol8:

[moabfool]

Yep it hurts! We used it on many of the short drops in the Subway. Never heard of it called Dulfer, we just called it a body rappel. It's definitely a jewel shifter! :eek2:

Even worse when the rope has a little sand stuck to it. I just stash a cheap webbing harness in the bottom of my pack now.

[roperidersny]

Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Technical Crap

The Munter Hitch
This is my preferred method of rappelling without a rappel device. The Munter Hitch is reliable, assuming you set it up correctly. All you need is a locking carabiner. Make two bights in the rappel rope, like a clove hitch, and fold one over the other. Clip the loops through the carabiner which is clipped to your harness. This method puts a nasty twist in your rope, but you'll get over it. If you know how to tie a Diaper Sling (http://uutah.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4339) and rappel on a Munter Hitch you can do some amazing things with very little gear.

The Carbiner Brake
The Carbiner Brake can be done with either six carabiners or one large locking and four regular carabiners (the large locking connecting to your harness). When using two carabiners, ALWAYS reverse the gates. These first two will keep the rope from running against your harness, however they can be eliminated in an emergency if you only have four. Then clip two opposing ovals (or Ds, although ovals are best) to the two on your harness. Put a bight of the double ropes through these two. Clip the last two ovals across these two and under the bights so they rope runs over the backs of the pair.

The "Dulfer"
The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.

:phew:
What about using the carabiner wrap rappel (which is still taught and used in the US military community) which only requires one carabiner and some sort of harness, or the carabiner brake rappel, or the much less known crossed carabiner rappel (also called the french rappel) which only requires two carabers and does not introduce any twist to the rope????

[moab mark]

Wow this is from the past. Anybody know what Tanya is doing now? She use to be great entertainment. Sorry for hi jack.

[qedcook]

I've used the carabiner brake once when my climbing partner dropped his device. It's very effective, but it does twist your rope up like crazy.

[Bo_Beck]

Tanya and I had lunch together yesterday at Georges Corner. She is doing well, staying busy with kids, grandkids, rental properties and her motel business! Tanya and I are busy putting together another book as well. Time flys and priorities change!

[harness man]

Good post!
ah the Dulfersitz!
the old dude who taught me mountaineering actually had a big leather patch sewn into the crotch of his wool knickers and then another patch on the opposite shoulder of his jacket: making a horrible rappel technique almost bearable.:facepalm1:
And the whillans harness! one of the very first commercially made climbing harnesses- it worked GREAT for standing around, but would crush your privates and flip you upside-down it you ever fell in it!
sigh.....the good 'ole days....
My vote is for the Munter.

[ratagonia]

Munter.

It works.

Have done the 2-carabiner "snake" - uh, almost died. Very unstable, needs to be constantly attended to.

Dulfer Sitz was responsible for many deaths when it was popular (early 20th century). The invention of the "rappel device" was a big step forward.

Tom