Climbing in Moab

[X2]

I am fairly new to climbing and bouldering. I have climbed up Rock Canyon in Provo and about a month ago got a membership to the Quarry in Provo where I have started bouldering which I am really enjoying. A group of us are looking at going down to Moab to climb/boulder sometime in the next month or two. I looked up Big Bend and it looks like a pretty cool place to boulder. Are there other places to boulder in/around Moab beside Big Bend? As far as sport routes go are there any down in Moab? I hear there are a few but most of the climbing is trad. I boulder on V3s and climb 5.11a/b. Thanks.

[Iceaxe]

As far as sport routes go are there any down in Moab?

Wall Street on the Potash Road is what you are looking for. :thumb:

All along Potash Road, which takes off to the east just a mile and a half north of Moab on Highway 191, are incredible cliffs rising straight up just a few feet off the highway. These cliffs form Wall Street and provide virtually unlimited routes and challenges to rock climbers.

There are degrees of difficulty for every level, from serious overhangs to easy sloping routes. There are areas to free climb, some set up for top-roping, and some with reinforced anchors along the route. There is crack climbing, there are shaded gulleys, there are shelves and inverts and sheer walls. There are also plenty of friendly folks, and even guides are available in Moab, that can help you out and give you some guidance.

[ajroadtrips]

Moab is great. If you looking for easier routes, Kane Creek has some slabby sport routes <5.10. They are in the sun most of the afternoon, and are great this time of year. Lot's of other moderate trad and aid routes around.

I was down there last weekend and did Happy Turk Hoodo (5.8C1) and some routes in Kane Creek. Fun. Temps were perfect.

deserthiker

[Iceaxe]

Awesome pic :2thumbs:

[live2ride]

That is and awesome pic man, I am impressed.

[ajroadtrips]

OK, if you liked the Happy Turk picture, check out this one. From Tezcatlipoca. Yeah, it's short, pretty easy, but way cool IMHO.

I'm a fan of the obscure seldom done towers. Fun stuff. Tez has a great approach hike.

Anyone else have a favorite tower?

deserthiker

[rock_ski_cowboy]

Cool pics, desert hiker. I'm not much of a climber usually, but sometimes I like to pretend. Out of curiousity I was wondering about what the policy in Arches is for climbing. I know there are a lot of cool towers througout, both large and small. Do they allow climbing on them, or is the policy similar to their arch climbing policy? Do you have a favorite in the park?

[ajroadtrips]

No permits are needed, and depending on the ranger, either no chalk is allowed or only colored chalk is allowed. Don't use chalk to be safe.

I know Bubo tower is sometimes closed due to nesting birds, I don't believe it is legal to climb on any arch named on a USGS map, and you can't climb on balanced rock. Other than that, I think it's pretty fair game.

Bullwinkle, an easy 5.6 short tower right by Owl rock is a good starting place. Owl rock is also highly recommended. It goes at 5.8+ or 5.9 trad and can be sewn up. (Hexes work great.)

Climbing Owl Rock with gawking tourists is a bit of an experience. (In a good way.)

Rock quality is very different than other places and takes some getting used to, but the routes are fun. I have not done any of the aid routes yet, but hope to soon.

deserthiker

[mra243]

Moab is great. If you looking for easier routes, Kane Creek has some slabby sport routes <5.10. They are in the sun most of the afternoon, and are great this time of year. Lot's of other moderate trad and aid routes around.

I was down there last weekend and did Happy Turk Hoodo (5.8C1) and some routes in Kane Creek. Fun. Temps were perfect.

deserthiker

Care to share more info about Happy Turk Hodo? I can't find any info about it, such as location, rack needed, etc...

[ajroadtrips]

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/kane_springs_canyon/105717496

Uh, a cheater stick was critical in my rack..... :oops: Other than that, just draws and aiders.....

[BrokenHorn]

HOLY SH&T!!! GET IN THE MIDDLE, IT"S GONNA FALL OVER!!!

That is KOOWELL!!! :2thumbs:

But it does look like it is going to fall over.