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View Full Version : Beta Twin Peaks, Mt. Nebo and Deseret Peak



rockgremlin
02-07-2006, 11:23 PM
Anyone ever bagged these peaks between the months of February - May?

I would like to tick these three peaks off before the end of May. Any advice? Would I need special gear (crampons, ice-hiking stuff, etc)?

Iceaxe
02-08-2006, 07:17 AM
I assume you mean Borads Fork Twin Peaks (and not AF Twin). But yeah I've climbed it in winter and spring and yes you need an iceaxe and crampoons to be safe. And you need to know how to actually use an iceaxe to arrest a fall. There are a couple excellent mountaineering routes to the summit that can only be climbed when snow still exists. But most the mountaineering routes involve a higher degree of danger then the standard hikers route. Two guys were killed climbing Twin in the spring of, I think, 2003.

I have also climbed AF Twin in winter and skiied off the top.

Borads Fork Twin Peaks is a great spring snow climbing using the standard hikers route. I'm sure you can rent an iceaxe and crampoons at REI. Standard hikers route is not to dangerous so long as you are aware of afternoon snow slides.

:popcorn:

Scott P
02-08-2006, 09:04 AM
Twin Peaks, Mt. Nebo and Deseret Peak

I've climbed them during winter and spring. Late April through May will be much easier than February (or March) on any of these climbs. Ice axes and knowledge of how to use them are a must on all climbs.

Here's a quick description of each one:

Twin Peaks

In winter, this is about the toughest peak in the Wasatch, except for maybe Sunrise. In May it will be much, much easier, and you can climb the standard route. In February 1997, I climbed the Hounds Tooth Ridge. Below is the route description I wrote up:

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/route_link.pl?route_id=1955&object_id=390

Hounds Tooth Ridge and North Ridge are the only practical routes in winter. Tanners, Stairs, and Broads Fork are death traps and should be avoided at all cost in December through early April. If you wait until May, Tanners and Broads Fork are great climbs. May is a way easier time to climb the peak than February.

Mount Nebo

In winter, one of the easier of the highest peaks in the Wasatch. In March 1998, I climbed the Cedar Ridge. Below is the route description I wrote up:

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/route_link.pl?route_id=2029&object_id=1443

Also, here is my trip report:

http://www.summitpost.org/cgi-bin/trip_report.pl?trip_report_id=1424&mountain_id=1443

Deseret Peak

A nice ascent in winter and not too difficult. There can be avy danger just below and just above the Mill Fork Saddle. In December 2000, I climbed via the standard route.
Below is my trip report:

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/trip_report.pl?trip_report_id=1542&mountain_id=1848[/quote]

I've also done it in mid-May. Piece of cake then.

James_B_Wads2000
02-08-2006, 10:03 AM
Mount Nebo

In winter, one of the easier of the highest peaks in the Wasatch.

Unless your this guy:

Surviving a 1,000 ft Fall on Mt Nebo
http://www.summitpost.org/cgi-bin/trip_report.pl?trip_report_id=1788&mountain_id=1443

James

Scott P
02-08-2006, 10:47 AM
In winter, one of the easier of the highest peaks in the Wasatch.

Unless your this guy:

Its still one of the easier of the higher peaks to climb in winter. And apparently, one of the easier to (accidentally) get down as well.

Any of the higher peaks in the Wasatch can be risky in winter. None of the higher peaks in the Wasatch exist that do not have risk even on the "safest" routes.

Anyway, I tried to provide fair warning of the route description.