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View Full Version : Trip Report North Fork Robber's Roost



rockgremlin
05-31-2005, 10:18 AM
These are a few pics from our trip to N. Fork RR a week ago. I didn't have my digicam on me. Instead I brought down my medium format camera. I just barely got these digitized, so I'll post a few.

One of the pics is of a fairly recent rockfall that has occurred. Some of the boulders that have come down are the size of a UPS truck. We had to throw our packs through one of the gaps between chokestones, and wriggle through a 2-ft diameter hole at the bottom of the rockpile. Many of the chokestones are still loose - be careful not to get "Ralstoned" here!

Enjoy!

rockgremlin
05-31-2005, 10:20 AM
...

Sombeech
05-31-2005, 10:50 AM
be careful not to get "Ralstoned" here!
:haha:

FOX
05-31-2005, 06:10 PM
I especially like the "International DJ" shot.... :rockon:

remoteman45
03-31-2010, 09:09 PM
Just did No Fork RR last weekend and it was totally dry and manageable. Anchors were good and no snags. The only tough part was the crack exit. It's described in the the beta about how to find it but nobody talks about how tough it was - at least for this failrly in-shape 53 yr old canyoneer. Had a great time tho for my first canyon in the Roost. Did White Roost the next day and had a ball there too. Had to ascend a rope tho but it's all good.

ratagonia
03-31-2010, 11:17 PM
Just did No Fork RR last weekend and it was totally dry and manageable. Anchors were good and no snags. The only tough part was the crack exit. It's described in the the beta about how to find it but nobody talks about how tough it was - at least for this failrly in-shape 53 yr old canyoneer. Had a great time tho for my first canyon in the Roost. Did White Roost the next day and had a ball there too. Had to ascend a rope tho but it's all good.

There are two exits side by side, that often get confused. check this out:

http://canyoneeringusa.com/utah/roost/hohum.php

Which did you ascend?

Tom :moses:

Iceaxe
04-01-2010, 09:09 AM
It's described in the the beta about how to find it but nobody talks about how tough it was - at least for this failrly in-shape 53 yr old canyoneer. Had a great time tho for my first canyon in the Roost.

Since you mentioned it was your first time in the Roost.... Just a heads up.... The Crack Exit is similar to many of the exits in the Roost. Mindbender, Not Mindbender, Larry, High Spur and a few others all have similar exits.... meaning short scrambles and a lot of long, up-hill, hiking requied to escape.

Now at least you can't say nobody told ya. :haha:

Iceaxe
04-01-2010, 09:16 AM
There are two exits side by side, that often get confused. check this out:

http://canyoneeringusa.com/utah/roost/hohum.php

Which did you ascend?


Wow Tom.... you rate the Exit Crack as 5.7 PG? I'd rate it 4th class, maybe 5.4 with very little exposure.... one of us is going the hard way or one of us has our rating way out of whack.

The Crux of the Exit Crack
http://climb-utah.com/Roost/Files/rrnf7.jpg

CarpeyBiggs
04-01-2010, 09:24 AM
well, if it's going to be "rated" as a climb, you base it on the hardest move. if i recall, there is a relatively exposed move right at the beginning to get into the crack. I'd say it's 10 feet of 5.something-ish. but, i haven't been there in awhile.

the rest is 4th class or lower, but still more strenuous than the actual canyon.

ratagonia
04-01-2010, 11:50 AM
Wow Tom.... you rate the Exit Crack as 5.7 PG? I'd rate it 4th class, maybe 5.4 with very little exposure.... one of us is going the hard way or one of us has our rating way out of whack.

The Crux of the Exit Crack


I've only done it once - maybe I had a bad day? Yes, that is the crux, and I thought that ONE MOVE was kinda 5.7ish, small holds for big floppy shoes. Not too exposed, easily spotted from below, perhaps even easy to 'assist' by stabilizing the foot.

...couldn't get my cane to hook on anything up there...

Tom :moses:

Iceaxe
04-01-2010, 01:00 PM
FWIW: I thought the Exit Crack was physically tiring because of all the short scrambles to begin and the long up-hill sand slog at the end.... but I didn't think it was technically difficult.... just my 2 cents...

DWayne27
04-01-2010, 05:47 PM
There are two exits side by side, that often get confused.

Maybe I am just a moron - but when I did the North Fork (I guess it has been two years ago almost now), we certainly did not find 2 exits 'side by side'. After reading all the beta I could find, Tom's site, Shane's site, and any where else, I did find the 'Partner Assist Exit', and from the pictures of that on Tom's site I am 100% confident that is all we found. We looked a while longer, although the wash takes you away from the canyon wall as I recall, and I think from my asking around on this site, the standard 'Crack Exit' you have to look a little bit up the canyon wall? Either way, the 'Partner Assist Exit' was far more physical then we thought the crack would be, with lots of.... partner assists. It was the first canyon I did without adult supervision, so I am sure it isnt as bad as I remember, but I would like to go back again and actually find the regular way out. From the picture, that crux looks a lot easier than several of the moves required to get out the way we went.

ratagonia
04-01-2010, 10:28 PM
Maybe I am just a moron - but when I did the North Fork (I guess it has been two years ago almost now), we certainly did not find 2 exits 'side by side'. After reading all the beta I could find, Tom's site, Shane's site, and any where else, I did find the 'Partner Assist Exit', and from the pictures of that on Tom's site I am 100% confident that is all we found. We looked a while longer, although the wash takes you away from the canyon wall as I recall, and I think from my asking around on this site, the standard 'Crack Exit' you have to look a little bit up the canyon wall? Either way, the 'Partner Assist Exit' was far more physical then we thought the crack would be, with lots of.... partner assists. It was the first canyon I did without adult supervision, so I am sure it isnt as bad as I remember, but I would like to go back again and actually find the regular way out. From the picture, that crux looks a lot easier than several of the moves required to get out the way we went.

'Side by side' being a relative term. 100 yards apart, I think. T

Iceaxe
04-05-2010, 07:09 PM
Yes sir... about 100 yards apart...

The Crack Exit begins at ground level... and not "a little bit up the canyon wall".

DWayne27
04-05-2010, 07:37 PM
Man - we really must have been idiots then. I have been wanting to go back and run that canyon again to find the crack exit, but whenever there is time for a trip it seems like we have other places to go.

Iceaxe
04-06-2010, 08:54 AM
FWIW: Here is a picture of the Exit Crack. This is the exit you are looking for. It doesn't like like much and it really doesn't look like an exit that will go when you first see it.

32893

DWayne27
04-06-2010, 02:55 PM
We had this debate a while back - http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthread.php?31122 - that picture above is definitely NOT the crack exit described on your website. What we encountered going up that exit as pictured above in this thread is not in any way similar to your description. We did not see the 'crux' as pictured in this thread, on your website, and other threads. What we encountered were several dryfalls of between 8 and 10 feet, with no way to climb other than letting my partners climb up me, give them a final push and hope they can shimmy up from there. Then they would drop me a rope to ascend.

Iceaxe
04-06-2010, 03:06 PM
Here.... I'll make it easy for you....

[B]N38

CarpeyBiggs
04-11-2010, 10:47 AM
http://www.bogley.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32893&d=1270569217

going from my memory here, so i might be wrong... shane, the photo you have posted here is mislabeled... the "Easy Exit" does NOT come in at ground level, you have to make those small climbing moves to get into it. the photo in this thread is of the "partner assist exit/false exit."

This photo below is the correct exit, and that climb is what you have to make to get into the crack. you can see this climbing move from the main canyon. it's not hidden up in the slot.

http://climb-utah.com/Roost/Files/rrnf7.jpg
(http://climb-utah.com/Roost/Files/rrnf7.jpg)

Iceaxe
04-11-2010, 02:29 PM
This picture.... (see below) is not taken in North Fork of Roobers Roost proper.... this picture is taken after hiking up the Exit Canyon about 200-yards.

I took this picture because it was the crux of the route, not because it marked the exited. If you are hiking down North Fork looking for the crux in the picture you will never see it. You must turn up what looks like a small slot canyon entering from the west (left). I've looked all through my pictures and can't find one of what the exit slot looks like where it meets North Fork... Wish I had one, or I wish some one would post one....


http://climb-utah.com/Roost/Files/rrnf7.jpg

Iceaxe
04-11-2010, 02:36 PM
And just for fun.... here is the actual track I downloaded out of my GPS after our March 2006 trip.

The False Exit is easy to see on the map, it comes in at the "e" in Robbers.


32974

ratagonia
04-11-2010, 03:30 PM
And just for fun.... here is the actual track I downloaded out of my GPS after our March 2006 trip.

The False Exit is easy to see on the map, it comes in at the "e" in Robbers.


Nothing "False" about the exit, other than the picture of the two guys - which is at That Exit, the Partner Assist Exit.

Otherwise, YES and YES.

:moses:

CarpeyBiggs
04-11-2010, 05:30 PM
I'm not sure you understand. You are only half-right. Your map is correct. You are incorrect on your placement of the photo with the two people sitting on the ground. The partner assist exit is where the "e" in robber's hit's the main canyon. That is also where the picture of the two people sitting with the narrow slot at ground level behind them is taken.

The next canyon down is the "crack" exit. That little climbing move pictured in this thread is from THAT canyon (which you have correctly identified). That move is also very early on in the "exit." I remember being able to see that move from the ground of the main canyon. The "crack" exit was not obvious at ground level like the other is. You have to do a little scrambling to get into, and then you have to make that one climbing move, which is what that photo of the people climbing shows. Granted, I haven't been there in 4 years, but I'm confident that move is less than 1 minute from the confluence with the main canyon.

DWayne27
04-11-2010, 05:37 PM
I think you are absolutely right Dan. I am completely positve that the photo of the exit with 2 people sitting on the ground is NOT the same exit as the picture of the climbing move, and would very appropriately be called a "partner assist exit"

CarpeyBiggs
04-11-2010, 05:50 PM
I checked my photos, and unfortunately, I don't have one that shows what the crack exit should look like from the floor of the canyon. I was also surprised to see that I last did this canyon in April 2005. Holy shit! Time flies. I thought it was in '07.

Here's a photo from on top of the "climbing" move. You can see the trees down below, that is where the main canyon is. That move is not far up into the exit slot.

32976

Iceaxe
04-11-2010, 05:59 PM
I'm not sure you understand.

That wouldn't be the first time.... :haha:




IYou are only half-right. Your map is correct. You are incorrect on your placement of the photo with the two people sitting on the ground. The partner assist exit is where the "e" in robber's hit's the main canyon. That is also where the picture of the two people sitting with the narrow slot at ground level behind them is taken.

I have no clue where the picture of the two guys sitting on the ground was taken at, it's not my picture. I snagged it from the web because it looked about right... I'm not defending that as a picture of the correct exit....

I can probably agree with everything else, except I don't remember having to do any scrambling to reach the crux of The Crack Exit, if there is scrambling involved before the crux it is very minimal as I didn't mention it in my notes, which were from a March 2006 trip. I did a bunch of Roost canyons in 2005 and 2006, now they all kinda run together into one big canyon memory. I have to read my notes to remember detail.

Here's my notes which were written during the trip....


Below the fourth rappel the North Fork begins to widen and is joined by a major drainage from the east (Ho Hum Canyon). In this section of the canyon you will find a typical Roost type trickle stream. 200-yards below Ho Hum what looks like an easy exit joins from the west. This is the False Exit, do not attempt to escape here, its an inferior exit requiring some dicey climbing on poor quality rock (as per goofball).

250-yards below the False Exit you will encounter the Crack Exit entering from the west. At first this does not look like a very promising exit. When standing in the North Fork of Robbers Roost this looks like a narrow slot canyon joining the main drainage. Even as you begin to hike up the Crack Exit it doesn't look encouraging. 1/4 mile after leaving the main drainage you will come to what at first appears to be a dead end. But a careful look will reveal good handholds that will allow you to climb the 10-foot crux of the route. The route is no harder then 5.4 with a partner assist to get things going. Once over the crux you will encounter anther dozen minor scrambling obstacles until you reach the sandstone rim.

Iceaxe
04-11-2010, 06:02 PM
And I disagree the trees you are seeing in your picture are North Fork... those trees are in the spur fork after you begin hiking up. If that was North Fork you would see an opposing wall, as the spur tee's into North Fork...

CarpeyBiggs
04-11-2010, 08:17 PM
I have no clue where the picture of the two guys sitting on the ground was taken at, it's not my picture. I snagged it from the web because it looked about right... I'm not defending that as a picture of the correct exit....

:roflol:

that's quite an about face.

you were the one who said this...


FWIW: Here is a picture of the Exit Crack. This is the exit you are looking for. It doesn't like like much and it really doesn't look like an exit that will go when you first see it.

but nevertheless, the notes you have posted most recently seem to be much more accurate. The photo i posted from above the climb is simply to represent the best visual we have of where the "crux" is relative to the canyon floor. The point being, that it's not in an obvious slot canyon like the picture we've been disputing. It is less obvious, requires a little scrambling (probably hands aren't necessary) to find. The picture YOU posted and called the "crack" is not accurate, hence why we are trying to clarify it.

your notes seem to do just that.

nat
04-11-2010, 09:47 PM
I checked my photos, and unfortunately, I don't have one that shows what the crack exit should look like from the floor of the canyon. I was also surprised to see that I last did this canyon in April 2005. Holy shit! Time flies. I thought it was in '07.

Here's a photo from on top of the "climbing" move. You can see the trees down below, that is where the main canyon is. That move is not far up into the exit slot.

32976

I have to agree with Shane on this. Those trees are definitely not in the main canyon. The climbing move in the "crack exit" is several minutes up the side canyon from the main canyon. I also don't remember any scrambling moves to get in to it. I've done it several times, the last being in Fall '07.

Nat

ratagonia
04-12-2010, 07:40 PM
I have to agree with Shane on this. Those trees are definitely not in the main canyon. The climbing move in the "crack exit" is several minutes up the side canyon from the main canyon. I also don't remember any scrambling moves to get in to it. I've done it several times, the last being in Fall '07.
Nat

I think in this case, we are talking 2nd class scrambling, which some might refer to as hiking. But I remember climbing up the dirt into an unlikely looking place, then a bit of 2nd class scrambling (or EZ 3rd) and a short walk to the short wall that is the crux, Beckey 3rd class. :moses:

Scopulus
04-12-2010, 07:46 PM
Pics...as requested.
These were taken a few weeks ago -- March 20, 2010.

Looking at the exit spur as seen from the main canyon -- NFRR. Enter to the left of the bushes on the left.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_YUay7Dr_zcI/S8PRSZYCBDI/AAAAAAAAGFw/h8mUQ_vDNzY/s800/NFRR1.jpg


Through exit spur.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_YUay7Dr_zcI/S8PRS4MOV-I/AAAAAAAAGF0/voumRjru7Tc/s800/NFRR2.jpg


Through exit spur.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_YUay7Dr_zcI/S8PRSzrqGfI/AAAAAAAAGF4/em6jjCs7o-s/s800/NFRR3.jpg


Crux in exit spur.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_YUay7Dr_zcI/S8PRTYYjXRI/AAAAAAAAGF8/9MY_5fEE4Ls/s800/NFRR4.jpg


Looking down the exit from the top. The varnished wall marked in the photo is in the main canyon (NFRR) opposing the exit spur -- that's about from where I took the first picture above.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_YUay7Dr_zcI/S8PRTm4OvBI/AAAAAAAAGGA/Su7jOJKdiWc/s800/NFRR5.jpg

A Google Earth Image showing main canyon NFRR, HoHum, partner assist exit, and crack exit (easier exit) in question. You can see from the scale on Google Earth (bottom left hand corner of image) that the partner assist exit is about 1000 feet from the HoHum confluence and the crack exit is about another 1100 feet past the partner assist exit (distance all as crow flies). Crux is indeed about 1/4 mile up the exit spur. The two guys in the other photo are sitting right about where the arrow marks "Partner Assist."
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YUay7Dr_zcI/S8PRbaLhFmI/AAAAAAAAGGE/sQJWYNa8lI0/s800/NFRRGoogleMap.jpg

Enjoyable canyon, but the exit is definitely one of the fun parts.

-Steve L.

ratagonia
04-12-2010, 08:11 PM
Pics...as requested.
These were taken a few weeks ago -- March 20, 2010.

...

-Steve L.

Slaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam Dunk!

:moses:

jman
04-12-2010, 08:26 PM
haha nice!

we need more of the likes of Steve L, around here!

DWayne27
04-12-2010, 08:30 PM
Very well done indeed. Dont think there is much room for arguement there. That all seems consistent with what I saw, experienced, read, and expected.

Thanks

CarpeyBiggs
04-12-2010, 09:27 PM
:lol8::lol8::lol8:

well done steve. thanks for posting those!

Iceaxe
04-13-2010, 12:49 PM
Thanks Steve :2thumbs:

agostinone
09-02-2010, 12:06 PM
Steve,

How were the anchors when you were there? I haven't done NFRR yet but I have read the beta and am heading out that way in couple of weeks to play. Some of the beta suggests that although some anchors are bolted they may be in bad shape or my get pulled. What was your experience?

Thanks,

Kenny

Scopulus
09-08-2010, 10:06 PM
How were the anchors when you were there?

Kenny,

All anchors were pretty straight forward.

Rap 1 was an easy boulder sling (possible downclimb on right LDC).

Rap 2 was an easy deadman behind a huge chock stone. Plenty of big rocks in this section of the canyon. We tried setting this one up by just slinging the rope around this huge chock stone and backing it up just to see how it would hold but the contour of the boulder is such that the rope tends to slide up over the boulder when the climber shifts below on rope -- not good. No bolts here, but seems like I saw some old holes or studs on the wall. Setting up a deadman here was straight forward.

Rap 3 was two bolts (may have been pitons now that I think about it). These were very solid.

Rap 4 was 3 bolts. These seemed rather sketchy. The hangers are loose (not the bolts) -- no worries about that part -- but the whole slab they're set into sounds like it could flake off. If you knock on it, it sounds like a big hollow flake. There's a lot of this type of stuff in the Roost -- flakes that are four inches thick that just fall off the canyon wall when you climb on it or stem across it. We backed this one up with meat then sent skinny down last. There are a lot of features at the top of this rap, but it would take some creativity to set up a wedged rock or some other natural anchor if these bolts are gone. Weren't any big rocks around this day, but maybe some to mine further up canyon. There is an exit between rap 3 and rap 4 if needed but I wouldn't think there would be any problem negotiating this rap.

Enjoy the canyon,

Steve.

canyondevil
10-19-2011, 08:49 AM
Anybody been down NFRR lately? Just curious about the condition of the anchors?

Thanks for any input.